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Words by Debbie Hathway November is a bittersweet time of year. I get the usual yearning to return to Mauritius (my body knows when it’s time to recharge), but it’s also a special time to experience paradise island when the sun coaxes inconceivable shades of blue from the ocean, and the “flamboyant” trees are full of brilliant red flowers. 16 November 2016 was the first time I visited Mauritius in the summer. It was a long weekend break made possible by sponsored flights through Air Mauritius. My mom had been fighting cancer for too long, having beaten it once before, and I needed a boost to get me through the next phase. However, that weekend was the beginning of the end of my mother’s life. Had I known that was imminent, I would never have gone. I was in denial, firmly believing she would turn the corner. I returned to Cape Town that Sunday morning. She passed away that night. My father and I were with her. So, when I get the social media reminders of my time there, those memories come flooding back and with them, the learning. I was at work the day after she passed, sending a magazine to print because there was nobody else to do it. I was retrenched a few weeks later. 

Join in The Lux Collective’s wellness programme this Global Wellness Day. Follow one of the participating resort’s activities on their IGTV channel and join in if you can! Words by Debbie Hathway ‘ONWARD AND DOWNWARD!’ For veteran marine biologist and oceanographer Dr Sylvia Earle, it’s a motto for life, having dedicated an epic career to underwater exploration and raising awareness around ocean conservation. At 88, she’s a living legend, the first TIME magazine Hero for the Planet, a National Geographic explorer-in-residence and founder of Mission Blue, SEAlliance and DOER Marine (Deep Ocean Exploration and Research). She has led over 100 expeditions, logged over 7 000 hours underwater, authored numerous books and lectured worldwide – and she’s not stopping any time soon. What motivates her to keep going? ‘Reasons for hope.’

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY You can contribute to conservation and community throughout Africa by participating in any number of Singita initiatives, or by simply travelling with a responsible ecotourism operator. “While the Travel & Tourism sector accounts for 10.4% of global GDP, wildlife tourism represents 3.9% of this figure, or USD 343.6 billion; a figure equivalent to the entire GDP of South Africa or Hong Kong. Of equal significance is the fact that around the world, 21.8 million jobs or 6.8% of total jobs sustained by global Travel & Tourism in 2018 can be attributed to wildlife,” says Gloria Guevara Manzo, President & CEO World Travel & Tourism Council. In almost three decades, Singita has become one of Africa’s leading conservation and ecotourism brands, with half a million acres of land under their stewardship in Rwanda, Tanzania, South Africa and Zimbabwe. During the global coronavirus pandemic, there is no tourism revenue, but the cost of managing conservation and community initiatives amounts to many millions of dollars each year. Strategic partnerships and generous donors help offset these expenses. Today’s traveler is very conscious of the impact of their visit, and they want to know that they are making a positive difference—or traveling with purpose. Normally, Singita guests at any of the 15 low-impact lodges and camps contribute to the company’s 100-year purpose to protect and preserve large parts of African wilderness for future generations. There are several projects on the ground, implemented by Singita’s partner Funds and Trusts, that benefit wildlife conservation or community development in the region. Working in teams is critically important. At the end of the day we are all trying to achieve the same thing—conserve the Serengeti ecosystem for future generations to come.

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

When you want to stop the world, sometimes the universe obliges. Debbie Hathway discovered this in Botswana. Published in Business Day Wanted Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY The day after my father passed away, I boarded a plane from Cape Town to Johannesburg en route to Botswana. It was set to be the trip of a lifetime, prime game viewing at two reserves in the Kalahari region and one in the Okavango Delta. I decided to join the small expedition as planned, partly for my father, who was an avid birdwatcher, and partly for me. I needed to find peace in the quiet of the bush. The invitation had come from Allan Eccles of Falcon Africa, in celebration of his company’s 30th anniversary. Eccles is a former SA Air Force pilot turned bush pilot and safari guide in the Delta. He knows the territory, not just here but across Africa. Well familiar with the annual wildebeest migration through the Serengeti and the Maasai Mara, in Botswana Eccles accompanied a television crew to film the catfish migration up the main river channels of the Delta. “I assisted at a wildlife lodge in the Savute during a drought, which involved driving water trucks to the pans on the Savute Marsh to fill them with water. The lions would follow the truck to drink at our feet,” he says.

The restrictions on movement, never mind life in general, imposed by the coronavirus pandemic must give new meaning to the term ‘itchy feet’. Whether you’re an avid traveller or not, you’re bound to want to leap out of your armchair and venture forth now that the South African government has declared interprovincial travel okay for both business and leisure. Published in Sail and Leisure Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY African Bush Holidays For All AfricaStay has pivoted way ahead of the rest, getting the basics down for their new division – Holiday Packages by AfricaStay – just before lockdown. “In the middle of the global crisis, we were able to retain our core team and focus on the rapid transformation necessary for survival in the travel industry today,” says Marian Sandu, director at AfricaStay. “We reinvented ourselves, learned new skills, and put all our effort into completing our new booking portal for tourists and travel agents. We’re excited to be able to launch Holiday Packages by AfricaStay as South Africa embraces the travel potential that comes with Level 2 status.” Historically AfricaStay has focused on Zanzibar, but with the technology wrapped up in this new portal the company will be able to offer holiday packages anywhere in the world. “We are very happy that South Africa is opening up for travel, with rates that appeal across the board. High-end destinations are offering packages normally aimed at the wealthy at rates low enough to make them accessible to middle-class travellers.” Support Local Look local for instant gratification because prices have never been more appealing. And book those international travel packages while the rates are low. It is a case of book now, travel later, while avid travellers wait for borders to reopen. Some destinations are already in the happy position of being fully booked for the near future. It’s a good idea to keep an eye on this platform, which also invites collaboration from travel consultants who may use it to promote their own products. Users will be able to search for holiday packages, flights, activities and experiences to suit both budget and availability. With so many more people working out of office as the norm, what’s to stop you from working anywhere else in the world? If you fancy a short break, there’s no better place to restore heart and soul than in the African bush. Bush Holiday Specials North West 4* Kwa Maritane Bush Lodge: two nights from R2650 per person, includes breakfast and one game drive. 4* Black Rhino Game Lodge from R1995 per person per night, includes all meals and two game drives. Book now and safari later. Valid until 28 February 2021, excluding 24 December 2020 to 4 January 2021. Book by 31 August 2020. 

There’s something about working out in the elements that changes the experience entirely. Whether the occasion is road running, trailing, mountain biking, hiking or yoga, there’s little that can keep a dedicated fitness fanatic away from an event in nature. And when it’s on an island, well… Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY Reconnect with nature After the 2018 CIEL Ferney Trail 2018, I was determined to enter the 2019 event. Extra motivation came in the form of the introduction of a fun 8km option for those who simply wanted to enjoy a little exercise around one of the most magnificent natural attractions on the southeast coast of Mauritius. The annual trail run is held in September in the Ferney Valley, a 2 800-hectare privately owned domain where 200 hectares are dedicated to the protection and rejuvenation of endangered flora and fauna in some of the last remaining endemic forest on the island. Half the proceeds of the race go to La Vallée de Ferney Conservation Trust and the other goes to Inclusion Mauritius, a group of 12 NGOs working for people with intellectual and physical disabilities. The Nando’s 10km run was oversubscribed last year, hence the introduction of the Nando’s 8km Fun Run. The former was capped for 2019 in order to control numbers passing through some of the more delicate areas of the landscape. ‘Many participants are noncompetitive and want to walk, so we changed the route as some plants were trampled last time with too many people on the track,’ says Mathieu Razé, group head of Communications and Sustainability at CIEL. Don’t think the shorter distance is any easier though. Jean-Marc Rivet, technical and administrative supervisor of the CIEL Ferney Trail, took us on a recce of the new routes the day before the race. It’s really something that should not be tackled without a little training and the right gear, which made me feel better about not entering as I had neither! The sheltered tracks patterned by the roots of the indigenous forest can be wet and slippery. It’s incredibly humid under the tree canopy and then you have to deal with the sun (or rain on occasions when the tropical weather system kicks in) through the open stretches. Not that it puts anybody off – these are points to remember for your race preparation if you’re tempted to enter next year! The 50km event was changed to the Allsport 37km to encourage more entries over a long-distance race, while still incorporating the daunting summit of Lion Mountain at sunrise. That was a great idea and it worked. There was also the Bank One 20km and the Sun Kids 4km race. There were 3 400 participants in total. Tough race for competitors I was at the finish of the 37km to see German winner Moritz auf der Heide complete a gruelling race, just ahead of four-time CIEL Ferney Trail winner Jean Eddy Lauret from Reunion Island. Third over the line, several minutes behind, was Simon Desvaux from Mauritius. Léa Cavelier from France was the first lady across the line in that race. ‘It’s my first time on this island. When I had a look at the profile before, I was pretty happy, not so much elevation,’ says Auf der Heide. ‘I started very content, until I got to the first climb… I really did not expect it! For me it was then a matter of not running too hard because I knew there were a lot more climbs to come. After about 29km, when we came out of the technical sections, I managed to get a gap on Jean Eddy, and we went into the downhill. I was feeling ok, thinking I was going to win this, and then all of a sudden he was right behind me. So for the last 3km I went all out to finish in front of him – and it was only 50 seconds! It wasn’t my best performance in terms of speed, but I don’t care. It was super beautiful, good competition, I managed to win, so I’ve got everything to be happy about.’ More tracks have been opened to the public to explore on foot or mountain bike, out of hunting season, for an annual fee of Rs1 500 (R617 at time of publishing). The routes cover 5km, 13km and 20km and you have access as often as you like. For more information, visit www.ferney.mu Hips don’t lie My first attempt at golf as a teenager failed dismally. My hips had too much swing apparently. Fine if you’re a dancer with a penchant for the Latin-American style, but there’s no room for that on the fairway. So when I joined golf pro Sheres Isram, aka Nanda, for training at the Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa Golf Academy in Mauritius I was hoping that I could get my hips to behave and that I could actually connect club to ball. That’s a lot to be thinking about when your mind is supposed to be in neutral. Golf is a mind game, say the experts. ‘It’s all up here,’ says Nanda, tapping his finger against his head. He is a good teacher. Patient, encouraging and strict (which I respond to quite well), and unafraid to reprimand me when I do something stupid. Like hook a ball into the palm trees overhead, never to be seen again. His response was simply to pick up another ball, place it on the tee, and tell me to try again. The 18-hole par-72 course caters for both serious and casual golfers. ‘The proximity of the golf course to the hotel and beach is a very positive feature, as you can leave the beach and 10 minutes later be on the first tee. The friendliness of the staff makes it a very pleasant experience,’ says South African business executive Angus MacRobert. ‘The golf course is very challenging. Whilst not particularly long, it’s very tight. So you have to play well, otherwise your score tallies up fast. The back nine, along the lagoon and sea, is one of the most spectacular in the world. And after finishing the round, it’s a two-minute walk to sundowners on the beach.’ Beautiful and different For those wishing to play on a different landscape, they can try the Peter Matkovich-designed Mont Choisy Le Golf in the north. It’s a par-72, 6 200m championship course with a limited number of memberships so it’s a privilege to be able to play there. Another option is the Ile Aux Cerfs Golf Club located on a small island off the east coast of Mauritius. Kevy Mohun, executive assistant manager at Ile Aux Cerfs, was project manager at Mont Choisy until the course opened in 2017. I asked him how the weather conditions compared. ‘When it’s winter, it’s windy everywhere. The natural vegetation helps shelter us at Ile Aux Cerfs,’ he says. Mohun adds that Ile Aux Cerfs is ‘stupendous’ location for a golf course, arguably one of the best in the world, with a string of awards to its credit. Since general manager Marc Amelot lead his team’s transformation of 15 of the 18 holes at Ile Aux Cerfs, a process completed in 2014, numbers have climbed to 25 000 players a year. The topography is undulating, featuring volcanic rock outcrops, lakes, gullies and tropical vegetation. The courses at Ile Aux Cerfs and Anahita Golf & Spa Resort on the mainland are designed by golf legends Bernard Langer and Ernie Els respectively. Guests at Anahita reach Ile Aux Cerfs and a private beach via a short ferry ride, making it the ideal solution for golfers and their partners or families who wish to spend the day together in the same environment. ‘These are two very beautiful courses, but they are very different,’ says Cyril Bougaux, head of communications and public relations for Alteo Properties Ltd. ‘I like both. At Anahita, we can hit very far. The second shot is the most important. At Ile Aux Cerfs, it’s trickier. You have to manage the ball, because there are a lot of trees.’ Pierre Quirin, a golf pro at Anahita, advises golfers to keep the ball under the wind when there’s a breeze. ‘It’s more difficult, of course, but it’s interesting. It’s part of the game of golf,’ he says. ‘Anahita is open, so it’s less intimidating than other golf courses. You can hit a bad shot from the tee. The hole will be far, but your ball is here. That’s a good thing, when you’re a golfer,’ he laughs. ‘If you do that at Ile Aux Cerfs you’ll lose your ball.’ Ile Aux Cerfs has been awarded the International Association of Golf Tour Operators Golf Experience Award for the Indian Ocean region at the IAGTO Awards 2020. The award is based on votes from more than 700 golf tour operators worldwide and acknowledges golf clubs that deliver the best experience to golf travellers. Visit beachcomber.co.za; fourseasons.com/mauritius/golf/; ileauxcerfsgolfclub.com and montchoisygolf.com for more information.

Debbie Hathway discovers that the ingredients of a true spa experience lie as much in the intuition of the therapist as they do in the connection to place a retreat offers. Published in Issue 5 of Sail + Leisure Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY