debbie-hathway

Where There’s Hope, There’s Life

Tue, 03 Dec 2024 07:07:02 GMT

Taking up the challenge of the century, Hope Spots around the world – from Mauritius to the South African coastline – aim to focus on the dire need to keep our blue backyard clean and safe.

Words by Debbie Hathway

‘ONWARD AND DOWNWARD!’ For veteran marine biologist and oceanographer Dr Sylvia Earle, it’s a motto for life, having dedicated an epic career to underwater exploration and raising awareness around ocean conservation. At 88, she’s a living legend, the first TIME magazine Hero for the Planet, a National Geographic explorer-in-residence and founder of Mission Blue, SEAlliance and DOER Marine (Deep Ocean Exploration and Research). She has led over 100 expeditions, logged over 7 000 hours underwater, authored numerous books and lectured worldwide – and she’s not stopping any time soon. What motivates her to keep going? ‘Reasons for hope.’

Mission Blue now has 156 of them and counting – Hope Spots covering an estimated 57 577 967km² of the ocean, singled out by local champions passionate about protecting places critical to the health of Earth’s blue heart. These are notable for their abundance or diversity of species, a particular habitat or ecosystem, or having significant cultural or economic value to a community. Rolex supports the project as part of its Perpetual Planet initiative, which is focused on those who go above and beyond to protect and preserve the ocean. ‘Hope Spots are often areas that need new protection, but they can also be existing marine protected areas (MPAs) where more action is needed. They can be large, they can be small, but they all provide hope,’ says Earle.

The hawksbill turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata) is critically endangered. Marine turtles are protected under Mauritian law. This one is foraging on a broken bubble coral reef.

Ask her why we should care about ocean conservation and she’ll quietly enquire if you like to breathe. As the so-called ‘lungs’ of the planet, the ocean generates most of our oxygen, acts as a carbon sink – limiting climate change by absorbing carbon dioxide – and hosts rich areas of biodiversity, often invisible to the naked eye. According to the United Nations, a ‘loose patchwork of weakly enforced rules governing international waters’ has enabled the exploitation of most of the planet’s oceans, whether through overfishing, acidification and pollution, or emerging threats such as deep-sea mining.

However, the United Nations High Seas Treaty, which was adopted on 19 June 2023, is another significant reason for hope. It’s a world-first legal framework that extends environmental protections to international waters and provides momentum to the drive to have 30 percent of our seas protected by 2030.

The Réunion Seahorse can be found as shallow as five metres and as deep as 60. It prefers sandy or seagrass areas and is not found on coral reefs. Meulepas and her buddy found this one while they were muck diving in a so-called shallow wasteland, away from a coral reef; There’s nothing quite like moving through the canopy of the Great African Sea Forest, and becoming part of it.

Meanwhile, on the small island of Mauritius (2 040 km² of land area), the location of one Mission Blue Hope Spot, the sea level rise measured in the capital of Port Louis is already almost one centimetre. This is according to Francois Gemenne, a researcher specialising in environmental and climate migration issues and climate change adaptation policies. The annual world average is significantly lower at 0,44mm. Beaches are getting smaller, and within those cerulean waters, coral reefs are dying, fish are disappearing, and cetaceans are running out of pristine habitats.

Reassuringly, sea temperatures have not risen above 29˚C. Mauritius resident Greet Meulepas, a biologist, marine and lacustrine scientist, cofounder of Beyond Scuba and awardwinning underwater photographer, is grimly aware of the human impact on this island her young family has called home since 2016. ‘Mauritius has the potential to be paradise on Earth: always balmy, tropical weather, beautiful mountains, temperate ocean, breathtaking nature, a rich culture, good-natured and creative people with a sense of humour and a talent for enjoying life – in short, an amazing place to raise a child,’she says.

But when she and her husband, award-winning videographer Olivier van den Broeck, both PADI-accredited divers, moved to the island, they noticed similar evidence of overfishing, pollution and climate change to what they had witnessed elsewhere. Runoff from agricultural activities (pesticides, herbicides and fertilisers) and construction works close to shore contribute to the decline of the coral reefs. In addition, grazers like parrotfish, which live off the algae on the reefs, are being caught. The resulting uninhibited algae growth causes the corals to suffocate. Meanwhile, big trawlers and longliners are scooping the oceans empty, and local fishermen who use simple fishing lines have no choice but to resort to fishing in lagoons where juveniles live with little chance of being able to reproduce.

Spotting a weedy scorpionfish (Rhinopias frondosa) is tricky – with their fleshy tentacles and atypical shape, they disappear into the seaweed and algae. They’re commonly associated with the Coral Triangle but, based on her sightings, Greet Meulepas is convinced that this species is encountered more frequently in Mauritian waters.

The Coastal Waters of the Black River District Hope Spot is home to spinner and bottlenose dolphins, a resident pod of sperm whales and other cetaceans. Humpback whales come here to nurse their young. The couple has spotted green turtles and hawkbills, pink whiprays, all kinds of scorpionfish, false stonefish, frogfish, ghost pipefish, moray eels and Mauritian anemonefish (endemic to the Mascarene Islands). They also believe they are the only ones to have footage of the rarely seen slow dragonet, endemic to Mauritius, in its natural habitat.

‘As an individual, you can feel powerless [to do anything about this]. But then I learnt about Mission Blue and I nominated the Coastal Waters of Black River District as a Hope Spot to connect with scientists and people passionate about protecting the oceans, share information and success stories, and reach out to local NGOs who already do a wonderful job and work hard to protect the oceans,’ says Meulepas.

Veranda Tamarin, under Rogers Hospitality, is one of the hotels in the area that takes sustainability seriously, educating staff, guests and the local community about protecting marine life and ecosystems and getting them involved in clean-up programmes in the village, along the beach and by the river. ‘Our engagement in marine conservation and protection includes a notable programme called the Coral Squad, developed by National Geographic, which aims to help educate local children about marine ecosystems, instil in them an explorer mindset and foster a sense of responsibility and care for the ocean,’ says Pooja Etwah, sustainable development executive for Rogers Hospitality.

Meulepas continues to rally support for the cause and find small ways to make a difference. She launched the Vetiver Project with local teacher Danielle Zélin and National Geographic Young Explorer Prashant Mohesh at Jardin d’Eveil in Albion, Black River. Vetiver is a ‘miracle grass’ that can purify water and control soil erosion with its metres-long roots. The idea is to plant vetiver around rivers, waterways, golf courses, cane fields and along the coastline to purify runoff water before it reaches the sea to give the coral reefs a fighting chance. This, together with expanding the mangroves (natural filters that maintain water quality and clarity as well as controlling nutrient distribution to seagrass beds and coral reefs), is an essential part of the solution to protect Mauritius from climate change.

‘It’s my way of giving back, for I am blessed to live on such a beautiful island,’ says Meulepas.

A very lonely Mauritian anemonefish gazes across a barren stretch of what used to be a thriving, colourful coral reef.

Meanwhile, in Cape Town, Mike Barron, a marine biologist, scientist and conservationist, PADI master scuba diving instructor and founder of Cape RADD (Research and Diver Development),

champions the False Bay Hope Spot. Home to more than 3 500 endemic marine species, including the star of Craig Foster’s award-winning documentary My Octopus Teacher, it forms part of the Great African Sea Forest, the only forest of giant bamboo kelp on our planet.

Fringing Cape Town shores and stretching north for more than 1 000km into Namibia, these are the ‘coral reefs’ of cold and temperate waters, as vulnerable to climate change and pollution as their tropical counterparts and as vital in their role as a carbon sink.

They sequester as much carbon as mangroves, salt marshes and seagrass meadows combined, reducing local ocean acidification, creating a refuge for marine life, protecting our coastline from storm surges and rising seas, and mitigating coastal erosion.

Incredibly, the Great African Sea Forest is growing, compared to elsewhere in the world where global warming is causing an annual global kelp forest loss of two percent. Its protection is vital.

Barron says there’s nothing quite like diving in the Great African Sea Forest. ‘You’re inside this three-dimensional ecosystem, not just floating over it but moving through the canopy. You become a part of it.’

The forest provides a home for a remarkable assortment of creatures, mainly invertebrates. The forest canopy attracts numerous schools of reef fish while a diverse range of sharks and rays depend on the sea forest for sustenance and shelter. Pyjama sharks can be found peacefully resting in small caves, often piled on one another, while gully sharks are abundant, gathering in groups of up to 70 individuals for mating purposes. Larger species like the bronze whaler, sevengill cow shark, smooth-hounds and even great whites gracefully glide past the scene. The short-tailed stingrays here reach lengths exceeding four metres.

The benefit of Cape RADD’s association with Mission Blue is communicating their efforts in monitoring biodiversity, which leads to funding opportunities that help them train the next generation of scientists and grow a community of conservation-minded ambassadors.

They work with thousands of people each year, teaching them about ocean conservation, shark conservation and the kelp forests – packaging recreational scuba diving and snorkelling excursions with a research component that might involve collecting data on shark populations or kelp diversity. This is the ‘eco-tourism citizen science side’ of the business where Barron and his team make it easy for everyone to access and engage with this environment. ‘It can be pretty overwhelming going into the kelp forest for the first time and not really knowing what you’re looking at. As specialists in the marine world, we can communicate what is going on and show them things they might otherwise have missed. They leave with a much better understanding and respect for the ocean and get a lot out of the fact that they contribute directly.’

The False Bay Hope Spot is one of six established along the coast of South Africa by Mission Blue in 2014, in partnership with the Sustainable Seas Trust. The others are Cape Whale Coast (from Rooi Els to Quoin Point, including offshore islands); Knysna (including the Knysna Estuary, marine coast and offshore waters), Plett (linking the Robberg Marine Protected Area to the Tsitsikamma Marine Protected Area), Algoa Bay and the islands (a sanctuary area hosting the principal breeding colonies of the African penguin) and Aliwal Shoal in KwaZulu-Natal.

Greet Meulepas’s greatest wish is for her daughter to be able to dive over pristine reefs and swim with dolphins and turtles. Hope Spots will ensure that when she is old enough to dive, the reefs and their inhabitants will be there in an immaculate blue paradise for all to share.

missionblue.org

Image credits: Greet Meulepas; Cape RADD

Published in Val de Vie magazine, 2023

*This story won a SADC Media Award in the National Print category for 2024.

Construction begins at Harmonie Golf and Beach Estate in Mauritius

Sat, 23 Dec 2023 00:16:18 GMT

If you’re looking ahead to living in the most exclusive enclave in the west of Mauritius,

Harmonie Golf and Beach Estate must be at the top of your list.

Words by Debbie Hathway

Construction begins on the new luxury development at Les Salines in Q1: 2024, and delivery is expected within three years. Work on the new 18-hole GEO-certified golf course is already underway, giving avid golfers another reason to seriously consider moving to Mauritius with its reputation for some of the most magnificent golfing facilities in the world.

“Les Salines is not just a road; it’s a lifestyle – marking the entrance to a modern town with many attractions and a wide range of residences from exclusive villas or beachfront apartments. It will all be right here. Tucked away in the heart of Black River in The West, this newly constructed cul de sac will provide access to luxurious new resorts and property developments with all their related five-star amenities. Thanks to its exclusivity, it will be the wealthiest area on the island in the next five years,” says Rinie Boshoff, Pam Golding Properties (Mauritius) Development Manager for the West Coast.She says the peaceful atmosphere that comes with the location of Harmonie Golf and Beach Estate is the epitome of “bushveld bliss”. There are 220 luxury villas and serviced plots dotted across 150 hectares around 54 metres above sea level. Homes look onto Le Morne and La Tourelle mountain from the other side of a horseshoe-shaped lagoon. Plots average 2,000 square metres, with a built area from 401 square metres. “You can buy a serviced plot, which, aside from exterior specifications, allows you to decide on the design and size of your villa. Or choose a plot-and-villa option, offering three villa concepts with flexible add-on extras. Whatever you decide, your home will reflect your lifestyle and decor preferences in a truly curated way,” says Rinie.

NATURAL WONDERS

Harmonie Golf and Beach Estate is a Property Development Scheme (PDS), approved for real estate sales to foreigners. It features bespoke, sustainable, passive design that works with the tropical climate for optimal temperature control. Bioclimatic architecture harnesses natural ventilation and light while each villa’s orientation limits its energy footprint. Renewable materials are used and endemic plant species feature in the landscape. Energy and water-saving equipment is provided, wastewater treatment and reuse facilitated, rainwater harvested and recyclables collected and sorted. Buyers can also opt for a 100% off-grid villa.

Villa N is designed for space and privacy, Villa S offers sweeping views and a central courtyard while Villa W boasts beautiful natural light as well as panoramic golf course and ocean vistas. General features include plenty of wood panelling, a rustic garden, swimming pool, and an ample patio. Property investment here promises strong capital growth and ensures permanent residency. Prices start from €490,000 for a plot and €1.61m for a villa.

ART OF LIVING

Meanwhile, residents on the estate get privileged access to Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa and Dinarobin Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa and their pristine beaches, while Harmonie Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa is under construction. Once completed, homeowners can enjoy the state-of-the-art Sports Club, rejuvenating Spa, and fun-filled Kid’s Club, all conveniently located just a short stroll from your home. Moreover, there will be a clubhouse, tennis courts and defined area for safe boat parking and launching.

When tomorrow never comes

Mon, 21 Nov 2022 08:06:16 GMT

Words by Debbie Hathway

November is a bittersweet time of year. I get the usual yearning to return to Mauritius (my body knows when it’s time to recharge), but it’s also a special time to experience paradise island when the sun coaxes inconceivable shades of blue from the ocean, and the “flamboyant” trees are full of brilliant red flowers.

16 November 2016 was the first time I visited Mauritius in the summer. It was a long weekend break made possible by sponsored flights through Air Mauritius. My mom had been fighting cancer for too long, having beaten it once before, and I needed a boost to get me through the next phase.

However, that weekend was the beginning of the end of my mother’s life. Had I known that was imminent, I would never have gone. I was in denial, firmly believing she would turn the corner. I returned to Cape Town that Sunday morning. She passed away that night. My father and I were with her.

So, when I get the social media reminders of my time there, those memories come flooding back and with them, the learning. I was at work the day after she passed, sending a magazine to print because there was nobody else to do it. I was retrenched a few weeks later.

Breaking old patterns

It took me years of soul-searching to accept that I could not look to others for praise, reward, or recognition for my effort, no matter how many times I burned out trying to prove I was worthy of the role or task at hand – a pattern I followed to my detriment for most of my career. I had to find that value for myself with help from peers, friends, and even strangers who connected with me and my work through social media. Seeing my writing through their eyes eventually changed my perception of myself and my skill. As a writer, one is constantly plagued with self-doubt, worrying about whether a story will be accepted and approved by an editor, and if the readers will like it. The thrill (and relief) of a figurative thumbs-up never gets old.

For me, Mauritius has always been a restorative space, which kick-started my healing long before I knew I needed help. My writings are not just another Mauritius travel story (I write about island property investment, medical tourism, and music, too) – each episode reveals something life-changing, and I’m grateful to all those editors who have encouraged me to write from the heart and been open to sharing those stories, as well as my hosts and their PR teams who have enabled me to alert others to the special people and places out there.

Opera under the stars

It started in earnest at One&Only Le Saint Géran where I had a very special introduction to Francesc Miralles and his Harmonia programme, and of course, “my band” – the Famous 9. There are many brilliant musicians on that island, but they got my attention the night we arrived, and I walked into that magnificent reception and heard opera – my mom’s favourite genre. They were singing something by The Three Tenors, and I’ve been a groupie ever since.

What is inextricably linked to my mother’s philosophy of life is LUX* Resorts and Hotels. Their mission is to help guests “celebrate life”, something my mom used to talk about ad nauseum. She was always on about wanting to “live” – long before she became ill – trying to break free of her challenges and limiting mindsets while teaching me how to do that for myself. She became the top-earning character model in Cape Town, after being discovered in her fifties.

Mauritius healing

I think the warmth, love, and appreciation of the locals, who delighted in my response to their world, changed me, as did the multitude of healing treatments I have enjoyed over the years at Shanti Maurice, Saint Géran, Shangri-La Le Touessrok, LUX* Belle Mare, LUX* Grand Gaube, SALT of Palmar, LUX* Le Morne, Beachcomber Dinarobin, Beachcomber Victoria, Anahita, Long Beach, and Ambre.

Life is all about balance. Learning never stops if you are open to introspection, awareness, and self-improvement, and I am forever grateful to my mom for introducing me to the healers on home soil who continue to help me navigate this path through life. I’m somewhere between my mom’s mantra: everything in moderation, and my dad’s Desiderata reference – “Go placidly amid the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence.”

What buyers want

Sat, 05 Nov 2022 23:35:42 GMT

Getting back to nature is still a thing, as is getting that highly coveted second passport.

Words by Debbie Hathway

Looking for Plan B

When foreign shores beckon, South Africans can get a very respectable bang for their buck, plus residency, in Spain, Portugal, Cyprus, Malta, and Mauritius, among others. But how does one choose? One thing is certain — it can’t be an emotional decision. If you’re after residency or citizenship in exchange for property investment, working out the pros and cons of each attractive destination can be daunting. To help buyers decide, Henley & Partners has developed a new analytical tool in partnership with Deep Knowledge Analytics, called the Best Investment Migration Real Estate Index. Potential investors can use this tool to analyse the reputation of and quality of life in the host country, GDP, the minimum property investment amount, potential rental income, associated property costs, application-processing efficiency, residency requirements, restrictions, saleability, and crypto-friendliness.

Follow the sun

Dubai tops the index’s rankings, scoring well for rental-income potential and lower price of property per square metre compared to other major international centres. Some fans also say the desert city has attracted loads of expats who appreciate its speedy modernisation that hasn’t compromised culture. Spain, Montenegro, and Turkey are listed next, with Portugal, Thailand, and Greece firm favourites for lifestyle. In Montenegro, property investors can choose between glamorous coastal resorts and new establishments servicing increasingly popular mountain and ski areas in the north. A lot of research is needed to make the right decision for you and your family. After all, a second passport could be the best legacy you leave them. Even though Portugal and Spain, for example, appear similar at face value you’ll discover more differences the deeper you dig.

Ocean frontage

Nick Whitten, Head of UK Residential and Living Research at JLL, credits the pandemic for bringing the best of town and country together. “Covid-19 triggered a boost in demand for the things we typically associate with rural living, causing strong house price growth outside towns and cities across most of the developed world. Demand has bounced back for cities, particularly in areas that offer a village feel.”

Mauritius is in with a shout at 14th place on the index, appealing to South Africans who want a better life in a safe, secure, well-governed regime, close to home. You can buy your dream home here for $375 000 and get permanent residency for three generations of family members. Property costs, fees, and duties are low and there is no capital gains tax.

Seychelles is another idyllic island destination that has seen strong capital growth and a buoyant rental market that has realised hard currency returns for investors. Eden Island, marketed by Pam Golding International, offers a unique opportunity for offshore investment and Seychelles residency in a proven successful development. It boasts world-class beaches, fishing, diving, and snorkelling, the most modern superyacht marina in the Indian Ocean islands, and easy accessibility with direct flights from all major destinations.

When it comes down to it, the beach lifestyle gets my vote every time.

An extract of this piece was published in the March edition of Wanted, 2022.

11 Wellness practices from Africa to Asia

Sun, 06 Jun 2021 08:27:43 GMT

Join in The Lux Collective’s wellness programme this Global Wellness Day. Follow one of the participating resort’s activities on their IGTV channel and join in if you can!

Words by Debbie Hathway

When people ask me “Why Mauritius?” I always say because of the way I feel when I’m there. Happy. Energised. And well. That sense of vitality, health and wellbeing sustains me for months between visits – except it’s been a very long 18 months to date, thanks to the pandemic.

It’s not even a romanticised view. I usually travel to Mauritius in the low season, about three times a year, when the weather is not perfect and I’m there to work, not play. My first visit to LUX* Belle Mare was during an anticyclone so most of the outdoor activities were curtailed. However, I was able to interview Mattias Rendefors, a former tennis pro who is also the resort’s wellness concierge, about the importance of sticking to a daily exercise regime.

At LUX* Belle Mare beach

Global Wellness Day

This year, friends of LUX* Resorts & Hotels, SALT Resorts and Tamassa Resorts will be able to get a little wellness inspiration online. The group will stream a 10-hour IGTV Wellness Festival in honour of Global Wellness Day on June 12. Would-be travellers can watch from their armchairs or join in at home, where possible. I’m up for yoga, stretching, relaxing and sega dancing. The bath ritual can happen later. Why not?

11 wellness practices

7am Sunrise yoga on the beach – SALT of Palmar, Mauritius
8am Wellness boot camp – LUX* North Male Atoll Resort & Villas, Maldives
9am Stretch and relax on the beach – LUX* Belle Mare Resort & Villas, Mauritius
10am Fitness tips for busy professionals – LUX* Le Morne Resort, Mauritius
11am Paddle yoga – LUX* Saint Gilles Resort, La Reunion
12pm Scenic tour of the village on bicycle – LUX* Chongzuo, Guangxi, China
1pm Nature walk and stretch – LUX* South Ari Atoll Resort & Villas, Maldives
2pm Bath rituals to try at home – LUX* Grand Baie Resort & Residences, Mauritius
3pm Nature trail with mascot, Mazaki – LUX* Tea Horse Road Benzilan, China
4pm Traditional sega fit dance – LUX* Grand Gaube Resort & Villas, Mauritius
5pm Burning sorrows ritual – Tamassa Bel Ombre, Mauritius

Collectable experience

Each resort will also launch a wellness-focused, one-of-a-kind experience that is designed to change the way we travel.

Luxury outback

Subi Mungroo is one of my favourite chefs at LUX* Belle Mare. He’s usually in the kitchen at Amari.

Start your day with a sunrise horse ride before cooling off with “home-grown” coconut water at the LUX* Belle Mare Resort & Villas’ onsite farm, Aubergine. Pick herbs and plants to prepare your own body scrub and indulge in a 75-minute spa experience at the Farm Shed. The resort chef serves a delicious health lunch there afterwards.

Mindfulness the SALT way

Detox with a plant-based lunch at SALT of Palmar before having a rejuvenating SALT facial. A hike in Bras D’eau National Park is highly recommended for a little “nature bathing”. The resort’s wellness coach will lead a guided tour that incorporates meditation and gentle stretching to prepare you for the transformative Brahma Kumaris experience.

Hug me honey

LUX* Grand Gaube Resort & Villas’ in-house honeybee apiary provides honey for the resort menus and LUX* Me Spa. Visit the eight hives, with their 240,000 bees, and learn more about the resort’s beekeeping efforts. Create your own honey scrub followed by a signature honey cocktail before enjoying a honey-paired dinner curated by the executive chef. Guests will be given a beekeeping kit to take home.

The spirit of island living

A LUX* Le Morne Resort team member will guide guests to a snorkelling experience on a traditional Mauritian pirogue. There is an option to take a garden-to-glass cocktail class in the resort’s herb garden, followed by a course on making vegan desserts. You can also go plogging (jogging and picking up litter along the trail) at the Black River Gorges National Park, which is home to more than 700 species of endemic flora and fauna as well as endangered wildlife.

**About LUX* Resorts & Hotels**

LUX* Resorts & Hotels helps people to celebrate life by delivering consistently on the promise of a different kind of luxury – hospitality that is Lighter. Brighter.

For more information or to make a reservation, email reservation@theluxcollective.com

Singita

Wed, 30 Sep 2020 06:59:54 GMT

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

You can contribute to conservation and community throughout Africa by participating in any number of Singita initiatives, or by simply travelling with a responsible ecotourism operator.

“While the Travel & Tourism sector accounts for 10.4% of global GDP, wildlife tourism represents 3.9% of this figure, or USD 343.6 billion; a figure equivalent to the entire GDP of South Africa or Hong Kong. Of equal significance is the fact that around the world, 21.8 million jobs or 6.8% of total jobs sustained by global Travel & Tourism in 2018 can be attributed to wildlife,” says Gloria Guevara Manzo, President & CEO World Travel & Tourism Council.

In almost three decades, Singita has become one of Africa’s leading conservation and ecotourism brands, with half a million acres of land under their stewardship in Rwanda, Tanzania, South Africa and Zimbabwe. During the global coronavirus pandemic, there is no tourism revenue, but the cost of managing conservation and community initiatives amounts to many millions of dollars each year. Strategic partnerships and generous donors help offset these expenses.

Today’s traveler is very conscious of the impact of their visit, and they want to know that they are making a positive difference—or traveling with purpose. Normally, Singita guests at any of the 15 low-impact lodges and camps contribute to the company’s 100-year purpose to protect and preserve large parts of African wilderness for future generations. There are several projects on the ground, implemented by Singita’s partner Funds and Trusts, that benefit wildlife conservation or community development in the region.

Working in teams is critically important. At the end of the day we are all trying to achieve the same thing—conserve the Serengeti ecosystem for future generations to come.

Anti-poaching efforts

In times of trouble, when wildlife tourism is negatively affected, one of the first concerns for conservationists is that illegal bushmeat hunting will increase in the neighboring communities. To date, tourism (and job creation) has been an effective way of slowing this practice. Singita provides much-needed employment, and helps to create economic independence within communities living alongside the reserve. In the Sabi Sand, South Africa, for example, the Singita Lowveld Trust focuse on small business development, environmental education, Early Childhood Development and digital learning. Community programs assist communities to thrive in harmony with the natural environment.

At Singita Kwitonda Lodge in the Singita Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, which reopened to international tourism on 1 August 2020, guests can contribute to a reforestation project to expand the range for endangered mountain gorillas by planting trees. Meanwhile at Singita Faru Faru Lodge in the Singita Grumeti Reserve, Tanzania, guests can donate towards the Grumeti Fund’s (GF) successful anti-poaching strategy, visit GF’s state-of-the-art Canine Unit and meet the elite Grumeti Fund anti-poaching team made up of 180 game scouts, some of which used to be poachers themselves. In 2019, thanks to their efficiency and perseverance, not a single elephant or rhino was poached and 246 poachers were detained.

At the time of implementation, rhino numbers across Africa were in a downward spiral and poaching was out of control. There were some years, where more than one rhino was lost every eight hours

Success stories:

Tanzania

Singita’s partner NGO, the Grumeti Fund is a nonprofit organization that contributes to the conservation of the Serengeti ecosystem. Its primary focus is to prevent poaching. Through collaboration with the Tanzanian Government, the Joint Intelligence Unit and Special Ops Group, they have increased the efficiency of their intelligence network. “Working in teams is critically important. At the end of the day, we are all trying to achieve the same thing—conserve the Serengeti ecosystem for future generations to come,” says Wesley Gold, Head of Anti-Poaching and Law Enforcement, Grumeti Fund.

A mobile patrol unit, comprising 21 game scouts on motor bikes, is covertly deployed in the 350,000-acre area. The Canine Unit is a key resource. Two Belgian Malinois joined the team in 2019, and six dog handlers qualified as working-dog trainers. That year, the team recovered kilograms of illegal bushmeat, made 15 arrests, and removed 576 wire snares.

In 2019, the Fund added an Aviat Husky A-1C to its aerial support team, which was instrumental in the success of recovering of bush meat, and Gold completed his pilot’s license.

In 2017, the Black Rhino Re-establishment Project started and in 2019, nine critically endangered eastern black rhino were translocated to Singita Grumeti to roam free, adding 10% to the national breeding population. The teams have had 66% success rate recovering elephants from farms when responding to human-wildlife conflict calls.

South Africa

The most successful anti-poaching story from the Singita Lowveld Trust has been the introduction of working dogs. Dogs had never been used in a large-scale, fully operational working unit, exclusively for anti-poaching. The innovative concept was trialled in the Sabi Sand, South Africa and continued ever since.

“At the time of implementation, rhino numbers across Africa were in a downward spiral and poaching was out of control. There were some years, where more than one rhino was lost every eight hours,” says Inge Kotze, Singita General Manager: Conservation. “Poaching attempts were quickly curbed when the organization introduced the K9 anti-poaching operation.” The dedicated canine unit has ensured the highest levels of security and monitoring with great success. In combination with other security networks in the area, this has also played a significant role in the apprehension of some of the most infamous poachers operating in the area.

Zimbabwe

Another one of Singita’s partner conservation funds is The Malilangwe Trust, a wholly Zimbabwean, non-profit organization intent on harmonizing biodiversity conservation, community development and commercial tourism. Over the past 21 years, its black rhino reintroduction program has resulted in 528% population growth. Their white rhino reintroduction program resulted in 729% population growth. Malilangwe is also home to 15 other critically endangered, threatened or near-threatened species, including Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, cheetah and African wild dog.

The Trust’s biggest success story, however, is its people. Proactive leadership, staff morale and community partnerships for business development coupled with science-based conservation strategies have been key contributors. Anti-poaching scouts monitor and protect the rhino and wildlife with an average 18,250-man patrol days per year while maintaining community relationships essential to consistent successful outcomes. As a result, there have been no snaring incidents in the past seven years.

How to contribute

Bucket-list travel may take a little longer to realize under pandemic restrictions, so why not plan what you can and do your bit in the meantime? You can make small donation to three anti-poaching teams or the next black rhino translocation; buy local products from Singita’s online Boutique & Gallery boutiques (at the lodges and online) to support local artists and contribute to the economic empowerment of local communities or purchase a cookbook which helps develop the next generation of Chefs at two of Singita’s culinary schools. Or you can book your next stay. Singita lodges or private villas in Rwanda open on 1 August and in Tanzania on 1 September, except for Singita Mara River Tented Camp. The reimagined Sabora Tented Camp in Tanzania also opens in September 2020. Dates for Zimbabwe and South Africa depend on lockdowns being lifted.

www.singita.com

Just do it

Tue, 29 Sep 2020 07:05:47 GMT

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

Find inner peace at one of these luxury lodges in Botswana

Tue, 23 Jun 2020 07:06:41 GMT

When you want to stop the world, sometimes the universe obliges. Debbie Hathway discovered this in Botswana.

Published in Business Day Wanted

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

The day after my father passed away, I boarded a plane from Cape Town to Johannesburg en route to Botswana. It was set to be the trip of a lifetime, prime game viewing at two reserves in the Kalahari region and one in the Okavango Delta. I decided to join the small expedition as planned, partly for my father, who was an avid birdwatcher, and partly for me. I needed to find peace in the quiet of the bush.

The invitation had come from Allan Eccles of Falcon Africa, in celebration of his company’s 30th anniversary. Eccles is a former SA Air Force pilot turned bush pilot and safari guide in the Delta. He knows the territory, not just here but across Africa. Well familiar with the annual wildebeest migration through the Serengeti and the Maasai Mara, in Botswana Eccles accompanied a television crew to film the catfish migration up the main river channels of the Delta. “I assisted at a wildlife lodge in the Savute during a drought, which involved driving water trucks to the pans on the Savute Marsh to fill them with water. The lions would follow the truck to drink at our feet,” he says.

The last days

In “normal times” Air Botswana flies direct from OR Tambo International to Maun International Airport in just two hours. In this, a final cross-border jaunt before lockdown, we used Safari Air charters to move between lodges, averaging about 40 minutes per flight, which meant getting incredible views of the diverse terrain. Ker & Downey Botswana guide Phefo Moheto was waiting to greet us at Dinaka, a private conservancy on the northern boundary of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. He met us at a tiny metal-roofed shelter alongside a short sandy airstrip, hand sanitiser at the ready.

Back then, still slightly incredulous at the coronavirus pandemic becoming a very real threat to the global status quo, we quickly accepted this accessory du jour at every stop. Eccles had pointed out the noticeable drop in the number of travellers waiting to clear passport control in Maun. Formalities aside, Moheto was eager to show us around one of the most unusual areas of biodiversity in Southern Africa. Nobody was prepared for the glimpse of the elusive aardwolf lurking amid the grasses near the road to Dinaka. It is seldom seen because of its bashful nature and mainly nocturnal movements, so we were quick to capture the small animal on film — albeit a blur. At least we had evidence!

Close encounter

Dinaka, meaning “horns”, is the latest acquisition by Ker & Downey Botswana, founded by safari pioneers at the end of the World War 2. Here, the semi-arid sandy savannah is home to more than 200 bird species including the Kalahari lion, cheetah, leopard, springbok, oryx, and brown hyena. There are also smaller mammals such as the honey badger, one of which sought refuge beneath the Dinaka deck that overlooks a waterhole. After dark, no-one ventured outside their roomy thatched safari tents without an escort. Incidentally, there are only seven safari tents, connected by wooden walkways.

The camp is unfenced and animals move through it freely. My deck seemed to be the chosen stage for that night’s lion opera. I shot up in bed wide-eyed as the first soloist began and crept out from beneath my draped mosquito net to peer outside. If I could have seen anything in the pitch blackness, I swear I could have eyeballed her right outside my door. Instead, I was forced to retreat and be content with listening to them roar all night long.

San walk

Day two’s highlight was exercise. After hours in flight or on the road, the chance to experience the Kalahari landscape on foot with San guides Voter Tsooqoma and Quma Xota was exhilarating. What a privilege to learn how they hunt, find water, make fire, and live off the land. Do you know they are armed with nothing but a small shoulder bag of finely honed tools, a wealth of knowledge of the natural world, and loads of patience?

Camp Okuti, Botswana

Next up was a visit to Okuti, a Ker & Downey Botswana camp in Moremi Game Reserve, the oldest protected area of the Delta. The reserve supports a tremendous amount of wildlife and boasts more than 400 bird species. I’m no stranger to land safaris but a water safari along the Maunachira channel, which flows in front of the five masasas (meaning house of reeds) at Okuti, was a wonderful surprise. Even better was pulling up at a river bank for a sundowner after guide Baams Motsamai had deftly opened the throttle to escape a charging hippo soon after its rather terrifying display of territorial behaviour. Who knew their swimming rate was 8km/hr underwater?

Sights and sounds of the Savuti

We were largely sheltered from world events for two blissful days. The wonderful hospitality, catering, and care of the local staff in an almost off-grid existence eventually gave way to the reality of Covid-19 and its far-reaching effects. The mood was grim as tour operators, travel agents, hosts, guests, and guides exchanged perspectives. Ghoha Hills Savuti Lodge was the first camp to have readily available Wi-Fi so the barrage of information allowed through was relentless. (Okuti limits access to Wi-Fi but made an exception under the circumstances for us to connect with concerned family at home.)

Ghoha Hills tent

Despite the angst, I was beginning to recover. It was as though I could breathe again at this hilltop retreat. The energy was different. I felt grounded and calm. Mother Nature was working her magic. We were in the Chobe National Park in the north of Botswana, which has one of the highest concentrations of game and wildlife in Africa. Park rules ban safari vehicles from driving off-road, and numbers are limited at a sighting. Venturing upon a nearby kill is pure luck, good timing, and strong instincts on the part of the guides.

Big Five

By the end of the trip we were able to tick off the Big Five — but not in every reserve and not around every corner. That is the beauty of the Botswana bush. Ker & Downey Botswana calls it a niche carved from eternity. And the Ghoha Hills Savuti Lodge environment features a landscape of lush grasslands contrasting with bleak stretches, a marsh, and the Bushman Hills formed nearly a billion years ago by volcanic activity.

This side of the Kalahari has a special ambience. There are no fences and little power (Dinaka and Okuti are generator-powered while Ghoha Hills Savuti Lodge runs off solar) — just the night stars which create a kaleidoscopic wonder that generates an indescribable inner peace. I shall return.

• Hathway was a guest at Dinaka, Okuti, and Ghoha Hills Savuti Lodge, thanks to Falcon Africa.

Travel Tuesdays

Sat, 20 Jun 2020 06:55:46 GMT

The restrictions on movement, never mind life in general, imposed by the coronavirus pandemic must give new meaning to the term ‘itchy feet’. Whether you’re an avid traveller or not, you’re bound to want to leap out of your armchair and venture forth now that the South African government has declared interprovincial travel okay for both business and leisure.

Published in Sail and Leisure
Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

African Bush Holidays For All

AfricaStay has pivoted way ahead of the rest, getting the basics down for their new division – Holiday Packages by AfricaStay – just before lockdown. “In the middle of the global crisis, we were able to retain our core team and focus on the rapid transformation necessary for survival in the travel industry today,” says Marian Sandu, director at AfricaStay. “We reinvented ourselves, learned new
skills, and put all our effort into completing our new booking portal for tourists and travel agents.

We’re excited to be able to launch Holiday Packages by AfricaStay as South Africa embraces the travel potential that comes with Level 2 status.” Historically AfricaStay has focused on Zanzibar, but with the technology wrapped up in this new portal the company will be able to offer holiday packages anywhere in the world. “We are very happy that South Africa is opening up for travel, with rates that appeal across the board. High-end destinations are offering packages normally aimed at the wealthy at rates low enough to make them accessible to middle-class travellers.”

Support Local

Look local for instant gratification because prices have never been more appealing. And book those
international travel packages while the rates are low. It is a case of book now, travel later, while avid
travellers wait for borders to reopen.

Some destinations are already in the happy position of being fully booked for the near future. It’s a
good idea to keep an eye on this platform, which also invites collaboration from travel consultants
who may use it to promote their own products. Users will be able to search for holiday packages,
flights, activities and experiences to suit both budget and availability.

With so many more people working out of office as the norm, what’s to stop you from working anywhere else in the world?

If you fancy a short break, there’s no better place to restore heart and soul than in the African bush.

Bush Holiday Specials

North West
4* Kwa Maritane Bush Lodge: two nights from R2650 per person, includes breakfast and one game drive.

4* Black Rhino Game Lodge from R1995 per person per night, includes all meals and two game drives. Book now and safari later. Valid until 28 February 2021, excluding 24 December 2020 to 4 January 2021. Book by 31 August 2020.

Black Rhino Game Lodge – Suite

Kwa Maritane Bush Lodge

Mpumalanga
4* Hoyo Hoyo Safari Lodge – Kruger National Park from R3 165 per person per night, includes all meals and two game drives per day. Book now and safari later. Valid until 28 February 2021, excluding 24 December 2020 to 4 January 2021. Book by 31 August 2020.

5* Hamiltons Tented Camp – Kruger National Park from R4 495 per person per night, includes all meals and two game drives per day. Book now and safari later. Valid until 28 February 2021, excluding 24 December 2020 to 4 January 2021. Book by 31 August 2020.

Suite at Hamiltons Tented Camp

Hoyo Hoyo Safari Lodge

Limpopo
4* Mabula Game Lodge from R1 475 per person per night, includes all meals and two games drives
per day. Book now and safari later. Valid until 28 February 2021, excluding 24 December 2020 to 4
January 2021. Book by 31 August 2020.

5* Thornybush Game Lodge, two nights from R8 995 per person. Book now and safari later. Valid until 30 June 2021, excluding 16 December 2020 to 5 January 2021

Thorny Bush Game Lodge – fire pit and sundowners

Mabula Game Lodge – Dinner under the fig tree

Book here for the getaway you’ve been dreaming about for months!

What makes a winning residential estate?

Fri, 24 Jan 2020 23:25:19 GMT

New World Wealth reports that 40% of SA’s wealthiest citizens are buying property in luxury gated developments. HomeFront reveals how top-notch estates continually evolve to ensure they stay ahead of their game.

WORDS: DEBBIE HATHWAY PHOTOS: Supplied

Published in Business Day HomeFront 24 January 2020

Residential estates are becoming more and more popular internationally, and SA ranks second only to the US for the number of such developments. SA is a global pioneer in residential and developments, reports New World Wealth, with annual research revealing a move away from traditional golf estates towards lifestyle and retirement estates.

NEXT LEVEL

Multi-award-winning Val de Vie, between Paarl and Franschhoek, is rated the top estate in SA. It has positioned itself as a wellness estate in line with global health and wellbeing trends. “Just as in sport, it is much harder to stay on top than to get to the top,” says Val de Vie group marketing director Ryk Neethling. “We’ve managed to improve our offering every year over the past seven years. Our excellent security brings peace of mind, which is crucial for wellness, and our farms will produce food for our restaurants and residents. The sports and medical facilities are world class and our strong community is a key factor in pursuing a long, healthy life.”

After the recent drought, the estate now has its own water plant. “We use a fraction of what we used before,” says Neethling. “All our irrigation systems have been upgraded and we can pinpoint exactly when we lose water anywhere on the estate. These are large investments but they make a big difference.”

Security at Val de Vie is upgraded on an ongoing basis. “This is a daily focus for us. We have multiple layers of security and are very proud that there has never been a breach of the security perimeter,” he says.

Besides prestigious schools in Paarl, Franschhoek and Stellenbosch close by, one of the residents is bringing the Bali Green School concept to the estate. The school is being built right outside our gate and is set to open in January 2021. We are getting enquiries from all over the world from people who want to live here and have their kids attend. It’s very exciting,” says Neethling.

COMFORT ZONES

Local investors are leading the international trend towards buying in a secure estate that is linked to premium educational facilities. Sitari Country Estate near Somerset West has a Curro school that caters for children from the age of three months through to Grade 12.

“A new upmarket shopping centre also contributes to convenience,” says Claudius Combrinck, executive director of property sales for Sitari Country Estate.

Security remains the top consideration when choosing to live in an estate rather than in a traditional residential suburb, and Sitari keeps working at improving its standards in this regard.

Combrinck says the Amdec Group will develop more homes and communal facilities within Sitari this year, given that lifestyle and recreation also rank high among the draw cards of secure lifestyle estates.

URBAN PARK

At Steyn City near Broadacres in Midrand, Steyn City School offers world-class education to pupils from Grade 000 to high school. In addition, a beautiful commercial park as well as formal and casual dining facilities allow homeowners to enjoy the ultimate live/work/play lifestyle. Prices of homes and apartments range from R2m to R40m. Steyn City is the primary residence for most of its buyers but a handful of investors have bought their properties for older children who are studying in Gauteng while they live elsewhere in the country.

This development is positioned as an exceptional lifestyle resort incorporating nearly 810ha of landscaped parklands. The developers have considered every conceivable lifestyle amenity to accommodate a wide range of interests and pursuits. Everything from golf and horse riding to outdoor gyms and yoga mats are offered. There are also tennis courts, children’s play nodes, an indoor aquatic centre, a mountain-bike trail and more than 40km of promenade for walking, jogging and cycling.

SAFETY FIRST

The Arabella Country Estate near Hermanus is one of the most scenic lifestyle estates in the country. With homes priced from R3m to R15m, it spans 113ha with 1.6km lagoon frontage. The estate is also home to an award-winning spa and a Peter Matkovich-designed 18-hole golf course with a clubhouse.

“The state-of-the-art security system has just been upgraded,” adds Johann Larney of RE/MAX Town and Country. “With so much to offer, Arabella is seeing an increase in young professionals and families settling here permanently.”

Fibre optic cabling ensuring high-speed connectivity available to homeowners who subscribe to the service – a plus for those who work from home. “We are 110km from Cape Town. With mobile offices and home-based businesses on the rise, Arabella has become a nice alternative,” says estate manager Dirk Uys.

Residents and visitors now have access to the Bot River Lagoon for non-motorised boating activities and fishing, and a new lookout deck built at the water’s edge is the perfect spot for lunch and sundowners.

NEW ADDITIONS

Fancourt in George is set on 613ha – that’s three times the size of Monaco. The estate is divided into seven residential areas, each with their own architectural theme, and prices range from R3m to R50m.

“The most recent addition is Noem Noem, an area of 45 vacant stands with only nine opportunities left,” says Stephen Murray, Pam Golding Properties area manager in George. “Noem Noem is inspired by the country living character of Links Ridge and the modern style of Montagu Ridge.”

Fancourt is 7km away from George Airport, which offers flights to and from Cape Town, Johannesburg and Durban. Hospitality facilities at the estate include the Manor House Boutique Hotel, Fancourt Luxury Hotel & Spa and a hair salon.

Golfers will relish the three championship courses designed by Gary Player, a branch of The Pro Shop and comprehensive practice facilities as well as qualified PGA specialists.

RESORT LIFE

On KwaZulu-Natal’s North Coast, Zimbali boasts an impressive natural environment with beach frontage and forest surrounds. Prices range from R5m to R75m.

The development has evolved to incorporate residential lifestyle estate characteristics and create one of the most successful mixed-use resorts in SA. It is well established as a highly popular vacation destination and offers large homes as well as smaller, lock-up and go units.

“While the primary residence component has grown over the years, an element of ‘semigration’ persists, with the necessity for business-related travels requiring a level of comfort so that family left behind are assured of a safe estate lifestyle,” says Sascha Bausch, Pam Golding Properties sales specialist in Zimbali.

There has also been a shift in the age of buyers investing in Zimbali. According to a 2019 Lightstone report, 62% of them are below the age of 49.

Recent major refurbishments to facilities include heated pools, comprehensive children’s play areas, a putt-putt course, flood-lit tennis courts, squash courts and a state-of-the-art gym. In addition, the estate opened up some dams for catch-and-release fishing and improved its existing nature trails to promote walking, running and cycling.

New World Wealth notes ongoing countrywide trends among developers creating small neighbourhoods within estates. Parks, birdlife, walks and trails are rising in popularity, whereas many lifestyle and golf estates have started to add luxury apartments to their offerings.

Top 10 residential estates in SA for 2019

This is how New World Wealth ranks SA’s top estates (in alphabetical order):

Arabella Country Estate, near Hermanus in the Cape Overberg
Atlantic Beach Estate, in Melkbosstrand outside Cape Town
Fancourt, in George on the Garden Route
Pezula Private Estate, in Knysna on the Garden Route
Simbithi Eco-Estate, in Ballito near Durban
Steenberg, in Cape Town
Steyn City, in Midrand
Val de Vie, between Paarl and Franschhoek in the Cape Winelands
Whale Rock Ridge, in Plettenberg Bay
Zimbali, next to Ballito near Durban

The top estates per category include:

In SA: Val de Vie
In Gauteng: Steyn City
In the Western Cape: Val de Vie
On the Garden Route: Fancourt
In KwaZulu-Natal: Zimbali

Playing in Paradise

Tue, 03 Dec 2019 07:01:20 GMT

There’s something about working out in the elements that changes the experience entirely. Whether the occasion is road running, trailing, mountain biking, hiking or yoga, there’s little that can keep a dedicated fitness fanatic away from an event in nature. And when it’s on an island, well…

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

Reconnect with nature

After the 2018 CIEL Ferney Trail 2018, I was determined to enter the 2019 event. Extra motivation came in the form of the introduction of a fun 8km option for those who simply wanted to enjoy a little exercise around one of the most magnificent natural attractions on the southeast coast of Mauritius.

The annual trail run is held in September in the Ferney Valley, a 2 800-hectare privately owned domain where 200 hectares are dedicated to the protection and rejuvenation of endangered flora and fauna in some of the last remaining endemic forest on the island. Half the proceeds of the race go to La Vallée de Ferney Conservation Trust and the other goes to Inclusion Mauritius, a group of 12 NGOs working for people with intellectual and physical disabilities.

The Nando’s 10km run was oversubscribed last year, hence the introduction of the Nando’s 8km Fun Run. The former was capped for 2019 in order to control numbers passing through some of the more delicate areas of the landscape. ‘Many participants are noncompetitive and want to walk, so we changed the route as some plants were trampled last time with too many people on the track,’ says Mathieu Razé, group head of Communications and Sustainability at CIEL.

Don’t think the shorter distance is any easier though. Jean-Marc Rivet, technical and administrative supervisor of the CIEL Ferney Trail, took us on a recce of the new routes the day before the race. It’s really something that should not be tackled without a little training and the right gear, which made me feel better about not entering as I had neither! The sheltered tracks patterned by the roots of the indigenous forest can be wet and slippery. It’s incredibly humid under the tree canopy and then you have to deal with the sun (or rain on occasions when the tropical weather system kicks in) through the open stretches. Not that it puts anybody off – these are points to remember for your race preparation if you’re tempted to enter next year!

The 50km event was changed to the Allsport 37km to encourage more entries over a long-distance race, while still incorporating the daunting summit of Lion Mountain at sunrise. That was a great idea and it worked. There was also the Bank One 20km and the Sun Kids 4km race. There were 3 400 participants in total.

Tough race for competitors

I was at the finish of the 37km to see German winner Moritz auf der Heide complete a gruelling race, just ahead of four-time CIEL Ferney Trail winner Jean Eddy Lauret from Reunion Island. Third over the line, several minutes behind, was Simon Desvaux from Mauritius. Léa Cavelier from France was the first lady across the line in that race.

‘It’s my first time on this island. When I had a look at the profile before, I was pretty happy, not so much elevation,’ says Auf der Heide. ‘I started very content, until I got to the first climb… I really did not expect it! For me it was then a matter of not running too hard because I knew there were a lot more climbs to come. After about 29km, when we came out of the technical sections, I managed to get a gap on Jean Eddy, and we went into the downhill. I was feeling ok, thinking I was going to win this, and then all of a sudden he was right behind me. So for the last 3km I went all out to finish in front of him – and it was only 50 seconds! It wasn’t my best performance in terms of speed, but I don’t care. It was super beautiful, good competition, I managed to win, so I’ve got everything to be happy about.’

More tracks have been opened to the public to explore on foot or mountain bike, out of hunting season, for an annual fee of Rs1 500 (R617 at time of publishing). The routes cover 5km, 13km and 20km and you have access as often as you like.

For more information, visit www.ferney.mu

Hips don’t lie

My first attempt at golf as a teenager failed dismally. My hips had too much swing apparently. Fine if you’re a dancer with a penchant for the Latin-American style, but there’s no room for that on the fairway. So when I joined golf pro Sheres Isram, aka Nanda, for training at the Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa Golf Academy in Mauritius I was hoping that I could get my hips to behave and that I could actually connect club to ball. That’s a lot to be thinking about when your mind is supposed to be in neutral.

Golf is a mind game, say the experts. ‘It’s all up here,’ says Nanda, tapping his finger against his head. He is a good teacher. Patient, encouraging and strict (which I respond to quite well), and unafraid to reprimand me when I do something stupid. Like hook a ball into the palm trees overhead, never to be seen again. His response was simply to pick up another ball, place it on the tee, and tell me to try again.

The 18-hole par-72 course caters for both serious and casual golfers. ‘The proximity of the golf course to the hotel and beach is a very positive feature, as you can leave the beach and 10 minutes later be on the first tee. The friendliness of the staff makes it a very pleasant experience,’ says South African business executive Angus MacRobert. ‘The golf course is very challenging. Whilst not particularly long, it’s very tight. So you have to play well, otherwise your score tallies up fast. The back nine, along the lagoon and sea, is one of the most spectacular in the world. And after finishing the round, it’s a two-minute walk to sundowners on the beach.’

Beautiful and different

For those wishing to play on a different landscape, they can try the Peter Matkovich-designed Mont Choisy Le Golf in the north. It’s a par-72, 6 200m championship course with a limited number of memberships so it’s a privilege to be able to play there.

Another option is the Ile Aux Cerfs Golf Club located on a small island off the east coast of Mauritius. Kevy Mohun, executive assistant manager at Ile Aux Cerfs, was project manager at Mont Choisy until the course opened in 2017. I asked him how the weather conditions compared. ‘When it’s winter, it’s windy everywhere. The natural vegetation helps shelter us at Ile Aux Cerfs,’ he says. Mohun adds that Ile Aux Cerfs is ‘stupendous’ location for a golf course, arguably one of the best in the world, with a string of awards to its credit. Since general manager Marc Amelot lead his team’s transformation of 15 of the 18 holes at Ile Aux Cerfs, a process completed in 2014, numbers have climbed to 25 000 players a year. The topography is undulating, featuring volcanic rock outcrops, lakes, gullies and tropical vegetation.

The courses at Ile Aux Cerfs and Anahita Golf & Spa Resort on the mainland are designed by golf legends Bernard Langer and Ernie Els respectively. Guests at Anahita reach Ile Aux Cerfs and a private beach via a short ferry ride, making it the ideal solution for golfers and their partners or families who wish to spend the day together in the same environment. ‘These are two very beautiful courses, but they are very different,’ says Cyril Bougaux, head of communications and public relations for Alteo Properties Ltd. ‘I like both. At Anahita, we can hit very far. The second shot is the most important. At Ile Aux Cerfs, it’s trickier. You have to manage the ball, because there are a lot of trees.’

Pierre Quirin, a golf pro at Anahita, advises golfers to keep the ball under the wind when there’s a breeze. ‘It’s more difficult, of course, but it’s interesting. It’s part of the game of golf,’ he says. ‘Anahita is open, so it’s less intimidating than other golf courses. You can hit a bad shot from the tee. The hole will be far, but your ball is here. That’s a good thing, when you’re a golfer,’ he laughs. ‘If you do that at Ile Aux Cerfs you’ll lose your ball.’

Ile Aux Cerfs has been awarded the International Association of Golf Tour Operators Golf Experience Award for the Indian Ocean region at the IAGTO Awards 2020. The award is based on votes from more than 700 golf tour operators worldwide and acknowledges golf clubs that deliver the best experience to golf travellers.

Visit beachcomber.co.za; fourseasons.com/mauritius/golf/; ileauxcerfsgolfclub.com and montchoisygolf.com for more information.

The way they make me feel

Wed, 27 Feb 2019 06:56:32 GMT

Debbie Hathway discovers that the ingredients of a true spa experience lie as much in the intuition of the therapist as they do in the connection to place a retreat offers.

Published in Issue 5 of Sail + Leisure

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

It feels like déjà vu – that sense of connection to a place and its people that draws you in and makes it impossible to leave. I’ve experienced it at the palace hotel Le Bristol Paris, where I hovered so long in the foyer after checkout that the manager came out to enquire what was wrong. Quite the contrary. It was about what was right.

There’s a fundamental theme that underpins the memorable spa and wellness experiences I’ve had in Mauritius that so remind me of that Paris visit. The more effusive the welcome, the better my experience generally. I must feel comfortable in the hands of a therapist to get the full benefit, but if I really get a sense of place at a spa, that’s when everything changes. It goes beyond training and technique, because that’s a given. Intuition impresses me – the recommendation of a treatment based on how I look and feel by a therapist who really knows their stuff and indicates the final transformation will be far beyond the norm. But more of that later…

Art of wellness 

The location of Dinarobin Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa at the foot of Le Morne Mountain already ticks the sense-of-place box because of its proximity to the UNESCO World Heritage Site that served as a shelter for runaway slaves in the 18th and 19th centuries. The resort’s interior design features the kind of burnished dark-wood furnishings and finishes that I love, having been raised in a home that was filled with stinkwood furniture made by my dad’s father and antiques collected by my mother. The dark wood conveys coolness, despite the tropical heat, and encourages a slower pace (for guests not staff, who are on the ball 24/7. I could have spent days in my Club Zen Suite, similarly decorated, never leaving except to take the few steps necessary to get from terrace to beach, beach kiosk and reserved sun lounger where I enjoyed signature cocktails while the sun set. I had 115m2 (heaven when you’re used to micro-living) of expansive bedroom, lounge, bathroom and terrace in an adults-only crescent, a beach concierge looking after my restaurant and spa bookings, and access to The Club at Dinarobin, an exclusive private lounge whose club manager made sure I was never short of bubbly, much to my delight.

I did find my way to the spa, though, to meet spa manager Aurélie Rougier Lagane before my signature massage. Then I got stuck. The kind of stuck I experienced in Paris, only this time it was at the start of my visit. If I say it has an interior swimming pool surrounded by massage rooms, wet and dry steam baths and a beauty parlour, I could be describing one of many similar establishments. What’s different is a combination of décor and atmosphere. The dark wood panelling and furnishings are at once grounding and calming. ‘We’re trying to stay with the roots, with nature. Look at the surroundings, Le Morne is next to us,’ says Aurelie. And when I realised their treatments incorporated Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic principles, my intrinsic response started to make sense. My mom’s father managed a health farm in Skeerpoort, near Brits in the North West province of South Africa, which I was fortunate to visit when I was young. I am no stranger to natural medicine and the Ayurvedic philosophies resonate. Deepak Chopra describes Ayurveda as one of the world’s most sophisticated and powerful mind-body health systems, developed thousands of years ago by the sages of India. ‘More than a mere system of treating illness, it offers a body of wisdom designed to help people stay vibrant and healthy while realising their full human potential,’ he says. ‘The two main guiding principles of Ayurveda are the mind and the body are inextricably connected, and nothing has more power to heal and transform the body than the mind. Freedom from illness depends upon expanding our own awareness, bringing it into balance, and then extending that balance to the body.’

Oh boy. I knew what was coming.

Later, in the capable hands of expert coach Catherine Nadal, one of the best therapists on the island, I succumbed. She did what the really good ones do – it’s as though they can see right through you, and have an uncanny ability to tell you exactly what your challenges are mentally, never mind physically. I’d heard it all before but, clearly, needed to hear it again. Two hours later, expecting to feel so relaxed after the personalised signature MUST TO B(e) massage that I’d be loathe to get up off the tatami mat, I was surprised to discover quite the opposite. She’d managed to dissolve the knots, clear my mind and energise me, quietly and calmly, in an almost meditative state herself. I left – eventually – with renewed determination to cultivate that highly desirable ‘innate state of balance’, and ever-grateful to have been able to enjoy such an unforgettable experience.

Out-of-body experience The first time I enjoyed a spa treatment immediately after check-in was at LUX* Belle Mare, the LUX* Resorts and Hotels’ flagship property on the east coast of Mauritius. No sooner had I entered my suite when the in-room telephone rang. It was the spa manager Joelle Valloo, inviting me for a birthday treat. How soon could I get there?

I’ve had the privilege of a couple of face and body treatments here – each time emerging from the spoil slowly, carefully, reluctant to break the spell. This is the only spa where I’ve requested a manicure and pedicure lying down – no matter how luxurious the conventional recliner, there is nothing to beat this level of relaxation!

The LUX* Belle Mare spa seduction begins at the entrance, as you are seated outdoors next to the tropical gardens to complete the admin formalities. Your mind already starts to drift as you listen to the soft relaxing music and the soothing sounds of the birds and water features, cleanse your hands with scented towels and allow a therapist to refresh your face with a gentle mist. After being led inside to change into robe and slippers, you emerge outdoors again and follow your therapist along the open-walled passage between the gardens and treatment rooms to the sanctuary she has prepared for you

You don’t want the moment to end, taking your time to leave the spacious room where you have been cocooned for an hour or two, wrapped in the care of the charming therapists. You linger in the entrance where the LUX* Me products are beautifully displayed to tempt further indulgence. And then you give in, desperate to continue the sensational experience when you get home, handing over your credit card together with your willpower.

You’ll find the LUX* Me range at LUX* Grand Gaube in the north as well as LUX* Le Morne (named after Le Morne Mountain) in the west, and if you’re a fan you can pre-order the desired items and have them couriered to you wherever you are in the world. The brand is all about providing a sanctuary to promote wellbeing – whether you’re in the recently renovated spa in Grand Gaube or the quaint alternative in Le Morne with its outside treatment rooms brightened with trailing bougainvillea, you can rest assured you’re going to emerge a whole lot lighter and brighter. Body and face treatments are personalised, but the Shirley Page Signature Facial is relatively new to the spa menu and takes this beauty treatment (for men and women) to the next level. It’s kind of a LUX* trademark – they’re always a few leaps ahead of the rest. And this facial, with its combination of exceptional organic essential oils and LUX* products, is a must-have treatment. Anything to have your partner look dreamily at you over dinner and tell you how radiant you look. Right?

Adults only A major part of my job as a travel writer is social media. Most of my time is spent setting up, editing and taking photographs, then captioning and uploading them. That’s what I was doing early one windless morning on the beach at Ambre Resort & Spa. I’d spotted a fisherman, waist deep in the ocean, whom I wanted to photograph, as well as some youngsters who were throwing a line in to a rock pool and actually catching little fish.

A jogger emerged (there are no restrictions around who can walk on which beach) on the Ambre side, sat down on a rocky outcrop, and drifted off into what could have been a meditation. He looked so peaceful and contemplative I decided he’d make a good photographic subject too. What I didn’t realise was that he’d been watching me, watching him, and as I made my way out of the water towards him to ask him to pose, he started chatting.

He says that I reminded him of a ‘lady in a story, living in nature, very wise’. ‘It seemed that you and the sea were having a conversation,’ he says, ‘in total harmony.’ Mauritians are charming by nature, and he’d been living and working in Italy for the past decade. Imagine the combination of Mauritian and Mediterranean style… Sure, he might have been trying his luck, but he was so spot on with his description that I lingered a little longer. You see I was in my happy place – the east coast of the island on a summer day (which I seldom experience as I’m usually there in low season). I’d arrived at sunrise the day before, and been whisked off for a massage straight after a quick breakfast.

I was relaxed, content, in another world. But we were meant to connect that day. I’d had the massage in the outdoor gazebo, usually reserved for the Timeless Memories couples treatment and further away from the other treatment rooms, because the hotel next door was under renovation. The noise was not conducive to relaxation. He explained that it was the new Salt of Palmar hotel. Palmar is my favourite beach and I hadn’t registered yet that I was so close to it, or that I was right on top of the latest innovation to hit the island’s hospitality sector. He did me a huge favour. So back to the massage mentioned above. Picture the scene. I’m lying looking at the sea when I’m not face down deep in treatment time with the scent of essential oils drifting through the air. (I had the classic massage with a special blend of almond oil, geranium and ylang ylang essential oils.) I can hear the waves lapping the beach, the birds in the palms and, in the distance, a very talkative young mother cat who calls the spa home. There are bamboo-and-raffia blinds to enclose the gazebo for self-conscious guests. I’m not one of them. It was early and there weren’t many people out yet. This is the way to start a holiday (or a work assignment) and I can’t recommend it highly enough!

Ambre Resort & Spa manager Brinda Etoar, quite rightly, says you can really relax in this atmosphere and in this unique location. ‘You don’t find it everywhere.’ There are only two outdoor gazebos, in high demand, and four indoor cabins. Savvy guests book their spa time before they even arrive.

Ambre Resort & Spa adopted the adults-only concept in 2015. It’s the only hotel in the Sun Resorts to do so and it works. ‘You don’t have to worry about kids! You just arrive, plan your excursions and book your spa treatments. Youngsters want to come and enjoy a holiday with their friends and often stay for two weeks or more. This is how they do it,’ says Brinda. (There’s also live entertainment until midnight, a nightclub that’s open till 2am and a bar service that opens at 9am daily.)

The following day I tried the more leisurely, signature candle massage, which begins with a foot ritual, followed by a full-body and head-and-face massage. This is a warm treatment. The candle melts into essential oil (choose from rose, vanilla or lavender), which hydrates the skin as it penetrates. It’s clear why it’s a best seller. Luckily I had the outdoor gazebo again. It was later in the afternoon, and not even the sounds of the children playing on the unrestricted beach below could interrupt my tranquil reverie.

Tracing tales

Fri, 21 Dec 2018 06:56:18 GMT

Debbie Hathway reflects on an indelible experience near Athens to celebrate a literary icon and launch some special new writing instruments.

Published online – 21 December 2018 in Private Edition

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

If you’re a journalist required to cross continents to attend a whirlwind launch, one of the perks of the job is that your host makes it as painless as possible. Cape Town – Dubai – Athens – Costa Navarino in 22 hours virtually flew by (excuse the pun). I joined colleagues from Turkey, Israel, and India for the final leg of the journey from Eleftherios Venizelos Airport to the Romanos Resort (listed by Condé Nast Traveller as among the best family hotels in the world for 2018). We were chauffeured along the motorway and into the Kalamata countryside along stretches of narrow roads that wound past olive groves and small villages, teasing us with glimpses of the ocean as we drew nearer to Costa Navarino in the Peloponnese.

After freshening up while the sun sank slowly into the Ionian Sea we completed our ‘odyssey’ at the palatial Royal Villa Koroni where our Montblanc hosts were waiting to welcome special guests from around the world to the launch of their 27th Writers Edition, Homage to Homer. And the penny dropped – finally. The Odyssey. Homer’s epic work, which, together with his poem The Iliad, is credited for providing the foundation for Western literature, was not simply the inspiration for our epic journey but the creative genius behind the new writing instruments that bear his name. That afternoon we had traveled via Mycenae to Messinia, both of which featured in Homer’s writing, the latter in the way of the first written account of hospitality in The Odyssey.

Such is the skill of the Montblanc artisans that I couldn’t suppress my excitement when I saw the Homage to Homer Limited Edition 1581 for the first time. (The collectors present had already given it resounding thumbs up!) Franck Juhel, Montblanc President Middle East, India, and Africa, smiles proudly. That’ll do. ‘Your reaction means that our designers, our craftsmen, our historian reached their goal,’ he says. ‘The whole objective with each writing instrument we produce – especially the limited editions – is putting all this history and know-how together to bring the story to life in your hand.’

Montblanc launches a new Writers Edition annually. This 2018’s tribute to Homer offers two writing instrument designs, both limited in production but only one that is numbered to 1581 pieces (the year when The Odyssey was first translated from French to English. It was years later that a direct translation was made from Greek to English.)

The Odyssey, Homer’s account of the 10-year journey by Odysseus to return home from the Trojan War, has inspired the shape of the writing instrument as well as the finer details. You’ll notice the reference to the wooden Trojan horse but look for the champagne gold-coated clip that resembles the spear of Achilles and the fine engraving of his helmet on the handcrafted nib. Further engravings also reference the six-footed structure of the hexameter that the ancient bards used to help them remember long texts.

Crowned with the Montblanc emblem, the matte black precious resin Writers Edition Homage to Homer is available as a fountain pen, and ballpoint pen, as well as a mechanical pen (only in a set). The Homage to Homer Limited Edition 1581 meanwhile is crafted from precious coral resin with a cap featuring a gold-coated inlay inspired by the armour of Achilles, the central figure of Homer’s The Illiad.

Montblanc is all about storytelling but this time I’ve got a few of my own to share. ‘We do not remember days, we remember moments.’ I haven’t forgotten the event refrain and neither has this collector who refers to it as an ‘indelible experience’. As if the helicopter flip over the ocean on the return trip to the airport wasn’t enough of a final flourish, suffice to say that taking a shower at 12 496 metres in the Emirates Airbus A380-800 First Class cabin is something I’m not going to forget in a hurry either.

Mauritius shapes up

Fri, 15 Jun 2018 18:30:38 GMT

Demand for residential property surges on this Indian Ocean island

The World Bank’s ranking of Mauritius as the top African country for doing business is the latest accolade boosting activity in the island’s commercial and residential property market.

WORDS: DEBBIE HATHWAY

Mauritius lies 25th out of 190 countries, ahead of SA in 82nd spot. Construction and real estate is the second fastest growing sector on the island, according to the Mauritius Board of Investment (BOI), with a gross domestic product contribution of 10.4% — just 1.6% behind the financial services sector. The trend is set to continue now that foreigners may buy apartments in condominium developments of at least two levels above ground, with BOI approval. The price? Not less than six million Mauritian rupees (about R2.1m), which does not offer the buyer permanent residency.

This option is in addition to the investment opportunities within an already approved Integrated Resort Scheme (IRS) or Real Estate Scheme (RES), both of which have now been replaced by the Property Development Scheme (PDS). This has relieved developers of the obligation to sell at least 25% of residential units to Mauritian citizens or members of the Mauritian diaspora. A minimum investment of $500,000 (about R5.9m) in a PDS allows investors permanent residency.

“Mauritius is getting busier. People are relocating and setting up businesses,” says Pam Golding Properties Mauritius director Richard Haller, who moved there with his family last year. “What drives this is essentially the ease of doing business from Mauritius.

“The government offers several incentives, including a harmonized tax rate of 15%, tax-free dividends and no capital gains tax,” he says. “And the island is just a four-hour flight from Johannesburg.” Pam Golding Commercial is launching in Mauritius this month to help those wishing to establish a business on the island. “There is so much opportunity here it makes sense to offer a commercial solution,” says Haller. The major areas of residential development remain Grand Baie in the north and Black River or Tamarin in the west, which is home to Tamarina Golf and Beach Estate, La Balise Marina and other high-end developments.

Read the rest of this article by clicking HERE

Age of Discovery shines light into the gloom

Thu, 23 Mar 2017 07:05:21 GMT

Published in Financial Mail 23 March 2017

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

International business and academic leaders have praised Age of Discovery for its readability and vision, its challenge and inspiration. It’s an award winner, no doubt, that will engage readers from cover to cover. By highlighting the unprecedented opportunities that exist if humanity finds a way to weather today’s crises, authors Ian Goldin and Chris Kutarna imagine what could very well be the New Renaissance with the intention to inspire hope and determination.

“If we want to achieve our own golden age, we can … The last Renaissance was a time of tremendous upheaval that strained society to, and often past, the breaking point,” says Goldin. “Now, we risk fumbling badly again, as individuals, as society and as a species — and we’ve had some big stumbles already. It’s made many of us cynical and fearful for the future. If we want to attain the greatness for which humanity is once again eligible, we must keep faith in its possibility. We must do all we can to realise it. We must broaden and share more widely the benefits of progress. And we must help one another to cope with the shocks that none of us will see coming.”

One of the book’s themes is preparedness. By being able to understand structural shifts, you will be less surprised by events that might be seen to be disharmonious. This book was written before Brexit and Donald Trump, both of which Goldin predicted and opposed.

Born and educated in SA, Goldin is professor of globalisation and development at Oxford University. He is now enjoying a sabbatical year and is promoting the SA launch of his 20th book. He was founding director of the Oxford Martin School, vice-president of the World Bank and chief executive of the Development Bank of Southern Africa, among others. He served as an adviser to Nelson Mandela and was awarded the Chevalier de l’Ordre national du Mérite by the French government. He was also nominated Global Leader of Tomorrow by the World Economic Forum.

“The best way not to be surprised is to fight. To be active. To anticipate. To shape the future. Then you get a future that you want,” says Goldin, referencing the centuries-old story of David and Goliath that opens and closes the book. “If you think about and develop a strategy that’s strong enough, you can defeat any foe. Age of Discovery is a book of thought and action.”

What we need to recognise in protest action, whether it is #FeesMustFall or whether it is about Trump, is that there is a deep-seated anger at how the world is evolving.

“The protests are signs of a democratic society, and though they’re ill-formed and need leadership, and there’s no plan, just protest, I’d much rather people were protesting than that the system stumbles on. That is dangerous. It’s not sustainable,” he says.

“The question is: do we hear the challenge and respond to it or do we dismiss it? If we hear the challenge and respond and reform and do things more urgently … create a different society in SA, gain more access, or in the US allow people who have been left behind to feel that globalisation is for them as well, then it would have been worthwhile,” says Goldin. “If it leads to mutual acrimony, and increasingly ill-gotten protests and defensiveness on the part of the leadership or the elite in SA or the US or elsewhere, it’s a wasted opportunity.”

Another key message of the book is that you’ve got to pay your tax, because governments are going to have to spend more money on making sure we have more inclusive societies, housing, education, health, infrastructure, transport.

“That money’s got to come from tax. And that means those who are benefiting, not least the big companies, cannot locate in the Cayman Islands or Liechtenstein or Luxembourg or Monaco. They have got to locate on shore,” says Goldin.

“The moral responsibility of wealthy individuals and big companies is absolutely central to this story, of how you deal with the future. Also, governments need to support the arts.”

There are two reasons that art features in Age of Discovery, he explains. One is that it was central to the Renaissance — how it symbolised the change in the way people understood the world and each other — but also in a more fundamental sense because we’ve become too obsessed with markets and prices and have lost value and ethics and perspective on what it is to be human.

“What all creative arts symbolise is that which cannot be priced … our sense of wellbeing is given perspective by art of all forms because there’s something that touches us in it.

“That was fundamental to the Renaissance and I believe that’s fundamental now. Unless we are able to understand that humanity is not just about buy and sell and what we can value in monetary terms, that there’s something else about what it is to be human and to interact with other people and their creativity, our societies are not going to have the perspectives required to be sustainable.

“The signalling by government that people have multiple dimensions and that we have to nurture all of them is important, but that cannot happen unless society believes in it and is prepared to contribute.

“It’s a business as well as a government perspective.”

Turtles in Mozambique protected

Tue, 28 Feb 2017 06:54:58 GMT

Published in Wanted 28 February 2017

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

It’s been three years since I flew in a glass-bottomed helicopter from Maputo hoping to see turtles at White Pearl Resorts at Ponta Mamoli in south-eastern Mozambique.

The mission? To see the turtles in Mozambique breeding season. From November to February, one of the main reasons guests visit is in the hope of finding sea turtles crawling up the beach to nest at night. This is the most important breeding area for leatherback and loggerhead turtles. The leatherback breeding group is small and they are critically endangered.

The mission: to see turtles nesting in Mozambique

Miguel Gonçalves, park warden of Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve, a Mozambique government institution with support from Peace Parks, has been heavily involved in turtle conservation for years. “Since 2009, when six turtles were poached in Mozambique between Ponta do Ouro and Malongane, we’ve had monitors patrolling the area and made local leaders aware of their work. It’s about education,” he says.

Their efforts are paying off as not one turtle was found dead this season.

Turtle monitors Pierre and Yvonne Lombard have been tracking breeding activity here since 1994, when they lived in Malongane with their young sons. “We love nature and we love the turtles; it’s a family thing,” says Yvonne. They left Mozambique in 1997 to invest in Botswana but have returned each year to pursue their passion. Theirs is the only data referenced by the Peace Parks Foundation and South African conservationists monitoring the movements of this transfrontier breeding group. From early recordings of 25 to 30 new loggerhead turtles, they now tag over 100 new ones annually. This year, they tagged another 122 turtles.

Loggerhead and leatherback turtles in Mozambique

We’d met them previously on a guided walk in search of nesting sites, and they’d agreed to let me join them on a subsequent night drive. “The only time you’ll see a turtle on the beach is when she needs to nest, otherwise there’s something wrong,” says Pierre. “We have to ensure minimal disturbances on the beach, especially during nesting season — no people, no vehicles, no lights, no dogs. If the females are disturbed while searching for a site, they’ll return to the water and try again later, but they can only hold their eggs back for 48 to 72 hours. By the third night, if they haven’t been able to nest, they’ll drop their load to make way for the next 120 eggs.”

Even on a guided walk, it’s essential to keep the use of torchlight to a minimum so as not to scare the turtles back into the water. The Lombards believe it’s important for escorted groups to be able to touch, feel and photograph an egg-laying turtle as long as they stay behind her. By then, she’s in a trance and is oblivious to anything except bright white light. “That experience will help people respect them and remember why it’s so important to protect them,” says Yvonne. “While human contact is not ideal, conservation and protection requires funding and this kind of experience could inspire that.”

Endangered turtles in Mozambique

Turtles have a special, built-in way of knowing where they were hatched. With the use of satellite tracking devices, the Foundation has established that the loggerheads go north to their feeding grounds in Maputo, Madagascar, Europa Island and along the Mombasa coastline. After two or three years, they’ll swim up to 3000km to return to this beach to nest.

The leatherbacks breeding group is small, yet stable, with a total of between 10 and 15 each year.

The Lombards go out nightly in breeding season to look for nesting activity. They record the mileage and GPS coordinates at every set of tracks as well as the date, whether there was a nest or not, type of turtle, size and tag numbers. The tides dictate the time of night that the couple travels — strictly 31km in each direction, otherwise their vehicle won’t make it around the point at Mamoli. “We need to tag and go, tag and go. Most of the time I can see by the tracks if there’s a nest or not without even getting out of the car, which saves time,” says Pierre. The sponsorship of a Ford Ranger, arranged by Ford SA through Interauto Ford Agency in Maputo has also assisted the process during the past two years.

“Sea turtles, both loggerheads and leatherbacks, have been protected on the Kosi Bay side since the 1960s and we have the benefit of that now. As development increases around Ponta do Ouro, we’re getting more turtles here where it’s still relatively unspoiled, so we think the breeding group is shifting north,” says Pierre.

Mission accomplished? The tracks tell the story.

White Pearl Resort

Paradise found
Situated along the untouched shores of the Mozambique coastline, White Pearl Resorts overlooks one of the most magnificent beaches in Africa. Tucked behind casuarina trees, 21 stilted suites provide spectacular ocean views with 15 of the pool suites located on the hillside and six beach pool suites offering direct access to the shore. If you need solitude, room service will be delivered by butler for enjoyment on your private deck 24 hours a day. Days are filled with swimming with the dolphins, diving the coral reefs, marvelling at elephants in the Maputo Special Reserve or guided evening turtle walks. Return from a busy day to White Pearl for a sundowner at the beach bar and delicious local cuisine served in the restaurant.

For more information visit whitepearlresorts.com or call +27 (0) 11 026 2674.

Le Bristol Paris promises magical spoils

Fri, 17 Feb 2017 07:04:27 GMT

A visit to the award-winning Le Bristol Paris hotel is unforgettable any time of year.

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

“Passion cannot be learned — no certificate can attest to its presence. It is nourished by a common experience, which it in turn nourishes,” says Le Bristol Paris guest relations manager, Jean-Marie Burlet.

It was that passion that got us talking, as I hovered in the foyer far longer than necessary after checkout. I was loathe to leave, still fascinated by everything and everyone at one of the few establishments that can claim the distinction of being a Parisian Palace Hotel. This honour is bestowed by the tourism ministry of the French government in recognition of their facilities, client service and accessibility.

Le Bristol Paris tasting menu

The award-winning hotel’s prestigious address on the rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré near the Elysée Palace attracts an “esteemed clientele looking for quiet and discretion”. Among its many unforgettable attractions are a beautiful indoor garden seldom seen in the inner city, The Spa Le Bristol by La Prairie (considered one of the best in the world), and the gastronomic creations presented by triple Michelin-starred chef Éric Fréchon at the Epicure restaurant and 114 Faubourg, a brasserie de luxe with a single Michelin star.

Perfect portions

Fréchon applies his renowned passion for terroir to his selection and preparation of dishes (often featuring things he likes to eat). He has an uncompromising approach to quality before price. “I like to work with a very rough product, like celeriac or artichoke, and find an artistic way to present it,” he says. He’ll use the vegetable as a container for another ingredient, such as truffle, taking care not to blur sensory boundaries. “Some restaurants put so much on the plate, there are too many flavours. You don’t know what you’re eating,” says Fréchon.

Chef Fréchon’s artichokes from Provence are an Epicure speciality. Think anchovies sauce with black truffle, egg powder and artichoke crisps with hazelnuts.

Executive Chef Éric Fréchon

Even his tasting menu, which he’ll prepare for small groups, will comprise one starter, one main course, two desserts, seasonal cheeses by master cheesemakers and some amuse-bouche in between. His specialties? Try poularde — Bresse farm hen poached in a bladder in vin jaune broth, with sweets of spinach stuffed with a royal of giblets, water crayfish and black truffle, and poularde legs, truffled stock of leeks and potatoes (€290 for two people).

Furthermore, portions are consistent; “not too big and not too small… when you dine with us you’re here to eat, not just to taste,” says Fréchon. To that end, he rates his biggest accomplishment as the compliments he receives from guests. “That’s very important to me. I feel so much emotion… It means a lot.”

Sensory experience

The sensory experience continues with Le Bristol Paris’s collaboration with the nearby Le Grand Musée du Parfum, at the former headquarters of the House of Christian Lacroix. After learning more about the history and science of making perfume, guests can return to the hotel’s Café Antonia for the Perfumes of Tea ritual. Instead of simply ordering tea off the menu, they are invited to make their selection by smelling the tea leaves.

“The notes from a tea scenting could read something like ‘earthy headnotes, caramel body and ripe red berry tail’,” says Café Antonia manager Pascal Havel. “The same way as you would describe a perfume, you look to identify headnotes, which are your first impressions, then the body notes, which are the heart of the tea’s character and, finally, the tail notes, which describe the scent that lingers after you have smelt the leaves. Tasting the brewed tea is a pleasure on its own.”

Le Bristol Paris romance

Reserve Le Bristol Paris’s romantic Terrace Suite with Jacuzzi and spacious garden terrace, “seemingly suspended above the Parisian rooftops, and enjoy a dinner designed for seduction”. Frechon’s renowned macaroni farci, black truffle artichoke and foie gras, or line-caught whiting fish in a bread and almond crust is on the menu accompanied by Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne. Finish with the priceless Nyangbo chocolate gilded with fine gold for dessert.

One night in the Terrace Suite with Jacuzzi, a three Michelin-star dinner for two, paired with Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne, and an American breakfast for two, served in the suite — from €6990.

For more information, visit lebristolparis.com.

• Published in Wanted 17 February 2017

Mauritius: four corners in four days

Mon, 06 Feb 2017 07:03:01 GMT

An unforgettable island holiday, from marine reserves to world heritage sites.

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

Tell a Mauritian resident you intend driving yourself from the east to the west coast for a meeting and they’ll sympathise. It’s a long drive: an hour to 90 minutes, depending on traffic, they’ll say. You might consider hiring a taxi or staying overnight.

Google Maps is not the most reliable guide — village roads morph into a maze for the uninitiated and many are unnamed. Then there are the “wild” dogs to contend with. Read “free to roam” rather than “homeless”, explained Lux* Belle Mare general manager Ashish Modak, shortly after completing the resort’s second sterilisation campaign with the Protection of Animals Welfare Society (Paws). For an animal lover, the proliferation of dogs who survive in less-than-ideal circumstances can temper that initial infatuation with the island, but organisations such as Paws continue to campaign for them, and there are great stories about resort staff and guests adopting local animals and relocating them as far away as the Netherlands.

For my seventh visit to Mauritius in late 2016, Kimberley Reid doubled as photographer and navigator and we set off to cover all four corners of the island in four days, beginning with the east coast. My favourite resorts were fully booked, so we planned to split our nights among La Mirage Residence Guesthouse in Belle Mare, the Golden Shell in Trou dʼ Eau Douce, and a friend’s duplex near Grand Bay in the north.

The Air Mauritius direct flight from Cape Town lands in the southeast at about 9pm, giving us just enough time to catch the end of the set by the One&Only Le Saint Géran’s legendary Famous 9 band and collect a hired car before heading to bed in Belle Mare.

The resort’s location on an exclusive peninsula means that guests can enjoy a range of watersports, from standup paddle boarding to waterskiing, on the property. We returned the following day and I made a beeline for the Hobie 15s, my regular skipper sacrificing his day off to accompany me. Even the wind showed up! A seafood lunch under the palm trees, followed in quick succession by spa treatments in the garden pavilion, poolside cocktails, and a tour of the new-look suites due to be unveiled after an extensive refurbishment at the end of 2017, led to dinner and dancing under the stars. 

We headed southeast on day two, en route to Ile des deux Cocos in the Blue Bay Marine Reserve. An upgraded highway system has transformed travel between the main centres over the last couple of years — if you miss a turn, you simply head for the next roundabout, retrace your route, and try again or, if time allows, explore wherever your navigator takes you! That day we covered the capital of Port Louis and a few of the small villages, but not on purpose.

Rescue dog Max

Ile des deux Cocos is a private island that all the locals know about, so we expected to be well signposted and easy to find. Not so much. Eventually resorting to my broken French, we obtained directions to the island ferry. The island, which is is open for day visits from the public or exclusive-use bookings for any occasion, was leased to the Lux* Resorts & Hotels group in 2001. It offers accommodation at a two-bedroom villa that was once the domain of governor Hesketh Bell in the ’20s when he needed to let his hair down away from his official residence. Every Friday, a platoon would arrive to hoist his flag to announce his imminent weekend stay and prevent anybody accessing the island apart from the partygoers.

If you need to work off the culinary indulgences provided by the open-air restaurant, guests can play beach volleyball, badminton or frisbee. We chose a slow walk around the island instead, which took all of 20 minutes, but that exercise spurt was shortlived. Longtime island manager Mario de L’Estrac is a master of rum creations — his own and those of his grandfather — which we simply had to taste. His favourites? The infusions with citrus, coffee, and chilli. We left reluctantly with a freshly made bottle of the latter and a reminder to give it another two weeks to settle.

Next stop was Trou aux Biches in the north, which we managed to find before nightfall. It’s a short drive to the tourist hotspot of Grand Bay, where we spent the following day tasting local food and getting tattooed! We bought lunch from a street vendor who promptly pulled out two little plastic chairs and seated us on the beach under a palm tree. It was one of the best meals we’d ever had.

Saving the best for last we hiked up Le Morne Brabant, a Unesco World Heritage Site known for the shelter it provided runaway slaves in the 18th and 19th centuries, in the southwest. Guided by local resident Anoop Jahul, we were treated to all the clichés — panoramic views, spectacular scenery, turquoise water, tropical heat. There’s simply no other way to describe it. Unforgettable will have to do.

Mauritian tourism takes off

Mon, 19 Dec 2016 07:03:34 GMT

Tourists bound for Mauritius in the first semester of 2016 have increased by 9,9% in comparison to the same period in 2015. Business is buoyant.

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

Mauritius notched up a higher-than-anticipated number of tourists during the first semester of 2016, according to a Statistics Mauritius report released in August, causing the Bank of Mauritius to revise its projected tourism earnings for the year to Rs 56 billion. That’s an 11,6% increase over the Rs 50,2 billion achieved last year.

A comparison of international air and sea passenger traffic during the first semesters of 2015 and 2016 shows an overall 9,5% increase in arrivals, against a 9% increase in departures. This result is no doubt boosted by the fact that there are more direct flights to the island. The top five markets are France (with a growth of 6,5%), Reunion, United Kingdom, Germany and South Africa. The number of arrivals from China has declined by 5,9%, a status being attributed to fewer available seats.

Charles de Foucault, general manager for the One&Only Le Saint Géran in the north-eastern village of Pointe de Flacq, notes that Mauritius has become adept at adjusting to fluctuations in world currencies. “Sometimes a shift takes place simply because of economics – the euro falling apart, the exchange rate making it difficult, but the money is only changing hands,” he says. In hospitality, you’ve got to follow the trail because economics affects the demographic in Mauritius in general. Why? Because the demographic drives everything else – length of stay, choice of three- or five-star hotel, selection of exclusive or all-inclusive resort, with golf course or without. The numbers of arrival are up, but I cannot say that only the five-star hotels are seeing an increase in their business. I think some of that is going to the real-estate industry.” Cedric Marin, a Mauritian-born director of Park Lane Properties, agrees. “Executives visiting Mauritius for annual board meetings bring their families and stay for a week to a month, while others come to explore investment opportunities.”

In recent years, Mauritius has become “hot property, thanks to its government’s wise decision to invest time, resources and money into innovating the way in which it attracts and conducts business, both locally and internationally.” James Bowling, CEO of Monarch&Co International, specialists in residency and citizenship investment programmes globally, references the success of their decisions published in The World Bank’s Ease of Doing Business Report 2016, where Mauritius ranks first among African countries and 32nd in the world. As a result, an abundance of new facilities are being developed all over the island, from shopping malls, restaurants, offices and factories to private schools and state-of-the-art medical centres.

Another World Bank report, Investing Across Borders, puts Mauritius as one of the highest recipients of foreign direct investment (FDI) per capita in the world. “Their Residency by Investment Programme is one example of successfully attracting foreign capital by offering investors numerous advantages, including tax incentives,” says Bowling. “In order to apply for residency, investors are required to purchase property for a minimum of US$500 000 in a Property Development Scheme (PDS). This is the new official scheme that facilitates foreign investment in Mauritian property, having replaced the previous Integrated Resort Scheme (IRS) and Real Estate Scheme (RES) options although there are still a number of active IRS and RES developments offering property for sale. Foreigners are unable to purchase outside of these zones.”

Hot property Currently selling off plan, the St Antoine Private Residence PDS by ENL Property and Red4 near Grand Baie will be one of the first luxury property projects to be realised within the government’s new scheme. Comprising 100 luxury apartments and penthouses as well as 30 plots earmarked for Mauritian investors, the developers expect to break ground in February 2017. By July this year, 15 units had been sold already, according to Mauritius Sotheby’s International Realty real estate manager Jacques Nell.

Patrice Legris, CEO of Alteo Properties Limited (APL), developer of the Anahita Mauritius IRS on the east coast, has seen marked growth in value since the project launched in 2006. “Many of our residents reinvest in the estate after they sell, with some owning six or seven units here. Capital appreciation has been quite impressive recently with four homes having resold with an average of 32% net capital gain, over one year, while in another extreme case one owner realised 133% net capital gain after four years for his villa.”

Having sold and completed most of the 223 plots on the southern part of the 213ha “tropical garden”, just in front of the must-see island attraction Île aux Cerfs, APL is currently launching the remaining 102 plots in the northern part of the development. Its third phase will incorporate eight prestigious private villas of 900-1 200m2 on plots of 4-5000m2 to be built on the unique IRS that offers freehold land with direct access to the sea. The plans have been designed by the famous French architect, Jean-Michel Wimotte, and the price range reflects the exclusive finishes recommended by him as well as the location and size of the plot of land (price on application).

“A few potential buyers, who are mostly European, have expressed a strong desire for large inside and outside living areas to fully experience the Mauritian lifestyle and climate as well as to entertain their families and friends,” says Legris. All the villas will have two swimming pools, one inside and one outside.

From a tourism perspective, Anahita has much to offer. While short-term visitors can revel in the luxury afforded by the Four Seasons Resort on the estate, residents can also utilise its main services, from in-home catering by a private chef to the customary tennis, golf, boathouse and conciergery facilities associated with a five-star hotel.

World-class golf courses Golf is a big attraction with green fees complimentary at resorts. Among the award-winning facilities are the two 18-hole courses designed by Ernie Els and Bernhard Langer: Anahita and Île aux Cerfs as well as the Peter Matkovich-designed course at the Villas Valriche IRS in the south west, which hosts the AfrAsia Bank Mauritius Open every second year.

Matkovich is extending his influence to Le Parc de Mont Choisy Golf and Beach Resort in Grand Baie. The development is an IRS with sales being managed through Pam Golding International and incorporates a new 18-hole course due to open at the end of 2017. “We have sold 190 units to date with the top price for a Signature Island villa being $4 million. Remaining units range from US$760 000 to US$1,2 million. The planning for phase three is now well underway, which will include a mix of villas and apartments,” says Pam Golding Properties Mauritius director Richard Haller.

Meanwhile, the Association of Hoteliers and Restaurants in Mauritius (AHRIM) has facilitated the introduction by the Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority (MTPA) of a Mauritius Golf Pass this year to provide access for tourists staying outside the resorts to the finest golf courses on the island. This is a low-season incentive accompanied by a significantly discounted rate on green fees. “More and more people since the recession over the last decade are looking for value for money. They don’t mind spending, but they’re looking at the return that they get,” says LUX* Belle Mare general manager Ashish Modak. “Mauritius, as a destination, has that value-for-money aspect.”

Holiday destination The appetite the South African buyer has for the Mauritius property market has always been “healthy”. It is not only a place South Africans know well, and have known for decades, as a fabulous holiday destination, but also an ambitious country that has made huge progress across the board in a short amount of time.

Marin credits the late Mauritian politician Sir Gaëtan Duval for raising the tourism profile of the island in the 80s. “Celebrities from Brigitte Bardot to Princess Stéphanie of Monaco have been coming here for decades, while the mid-year European holiday tradition has been passed down through generations. These families have stayed at hotels from Paradis Hotel & Golf Club (on the Le Morne Peninsula) to Saint Géran, they’ve grown up with the locals and they have an attachment to the island,” he says. “Now they might be flying in with their private jet, renting a beach bungalow or villa serviced by a butler and boatman, or staying close to facilities with access to a beach club, hiring a car and making a point of seeing more of the island.”

Since its rebranding four years ago, LUX* Belle Mare has developed its own following among guests who cleave to their lighter, brighter holiday experience, designed to encapsulate and celebrate the authentic energy of island life.

Modak says the LUX* group is seeing “fantastic returns in terms of increasing occupancies… and this hotel, in particular, has been outstanding”. “The feedback I get is that guests love the simplicity of island life, the people, and when it comes to the hotel here at Belle Mare, the unique experiences we offer that you don’t find anywhere else – from rum tasting at Mari Kontan to finding a message in a bottle that offers you a reward you’ll remember for a long time.”

The iconic One&Only Le Saint Géran, meanwhile, has seen guests return as many as 28 times. “These are world travellers, who are tired of looking and want to connect right away. They know the staff, and they, in turn, know their likes and dislikes. It’s like coming home,” says De Foucault. The reality of the hospitality industry is that demands for renewal are inevitable. “Half the people tell you not to touch a thing, because there is so much memory engraved everywhere. Then we’ve got the generation who refuse to come because we’re not new. Some guests will try another hotel, but they miss the soul of Saint Géran and soon book with us again.”

Those who love live entertainment return purely for the Famous 9. The band is an institution at this resort, as well known for their immense talent and repertoire as their annual accompaniment of Chris de Burgh when he visits during the festive season. The late Nelson Mandela was a great fan.

The recent announcement of the resort’s planned refurbishment from February 2017, with a view to reopening by the end of that year, holds the promise of enhancements that will amplify the property’s USPs – a sense of exclusivity on its own private peninsula, with a beachfront and calm lagoon unlike any other resort in Mauritius. And for those guests who can’t bear to leave again, One&Only Le Saint Géran will be unveiling secluded villas for those who want to make the resort home.

Photograph courtesy of LUX* Belle Mare

A taste for travel

Wed, 09 Nov 2016 07:00:20 GMT

Published in Financial Mail Travel – November 2016

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

Credited with elevating Indian cuisine to an epicurean experience, Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia gets large dollops of creative inspiration from travel.

Anything and everything influences me – plates, magazines, people’s likes and dislikes, my travels … inspiration can strike anywhere. Although I wanted to be a pilot at a very young age, and I grew up near an airport in Bombay, I took my first domestic flight aged 21. What a joy it was! I never knew that in the next 10 to 12 years I’d be doing three flights a month.

I’m a constant traveller – it’s something of a trademark now. It begins mostly in London and goes on to everywhere. Mauritius and Mumbai get three or four visits a year, I’m in Geneva every six weeks, and I use Dubai as a transit hub once every four or five weeks to go to Bahrain, Doha or Saudi Arabia.

My wife, Rashima, says this is the secret to our happy marriage – because I’m never at home. She’s my business partner, wife and boss. When I’m working in London, 16 hours a day, we see each other at work and at home, but we’re not really standing in front of each other. When I’m travelling, I’ve got WhatsApp and Tango (the Middle Eastern equivalent) as well as Skype. And the airlines have in-flight Wi-Fi, so communication is instantaneous.

Technology has been a huge asset for travellers who need to keep in touch, not just with their families, but also their teams around the world. The guys in Geneva might send me a message or photograph to comment on, or I might get a call from the head chef in Bahrain to confirm the menu offering when the royal family is sitting for lunch…

Vacations boil down to the schedule. My diary is generally booked up 12 months ahead, but we try to plan at least one trip a year somewhere totally different.

Long breaks happen mostly in summer. Last year we went to Japan and before that Venezuela, where I saw black-coloured corn for the first time. I thought it was artificially dyed, but locals convinced me that black is the corn’s natural colour. That was an eye-opener. There is a black potato, too. I’ve seen purple and white, but never black potatoes. When you get a naturally black potato, it boggles your mind. This is a very important aspect to travel – it opens up your thought processes.

It was Japan, though, that really hit me. The culture, the people, their eating habits, eye for detail, precision – it is absolutely fantastic. As a chef, I enjoyed visiting the markets and seeing things so symmetrically arranged. All the carrots, beans and peas are the same size, yet they are not genetically grown. The quality is grade A, not just in the big cities such as Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka, but also in the smaller villages of Mount Fuji, Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

The Japanese have also produced the cuisine I love most after my own. I’ve used Japanese flavours to influence my own dishes. We combine the flavour and pungency of wasabi with mustard seed, for example, and infuse it with tandoori prawns. I have made a dressing out of the Japanese lemon yuzu, soya sauce and tamarind chutney to go with idli, a steamed rice dumpling from the south of India. And chicken tikka is still chicken tikka, but instead of adding black-mustard seeds from North India, you can replace them with a hint of wasabi for a further kick.

Travelling to the Middle East, I’ve found a lot of familiar food, because there has been so much trade between India and the Arab world over many centuries. We use jaggery, brown sugar and molasses, while they take date syrup and honey influences from Morocco, Iran, Iraq and Syria. We try to incorporate those into the cuisine, because they are also part of the Indian repertoire.

I’m looking forward to participating in the Chefs Who Share – the Art of Giving fundraiser in Johannesburg this year, as I have never been to South Africa. I want to see the local market, to work with the local chefs, and to get a sense of the local people. That will be inspiring, because that is the common denominator everywhere. No matter where you go, it’s all about people, culture, respect, and good-quality fresh products cooked with passion, love and care. That is what travel has taught me.

Experience the charm of Oldenburg Vineyards

Mon, 10 Oct 2016 07:07:34 GMT

Sometimes I try to remember LBW. That’s Life Before Wine. Not Leg Before Wicket. I only really developed an appreciation for it when I moved to the Cape in the winter of 2006. The temperatures were the kind of freezing I hadn’t experienced living in subtropical of Durban, where I’d spent 20 years of my life – and people seemed well-focused on saving their energy for drinking red wine in front of roaring fires.

On an October day like today, when the onset of spring is a distant memory, and we’ve resigned ourselves to dressing for all four seasons as we wait for summer (which is really only in December, here in the Mother City), I crave a glass of Oldenburg Vineyards’ Grenache Noir 2014. It’s the ideal selection when the skies are blue, but the air is cool.

I would drive out towards Stellenbosch and collect some if I wasn’t at my desk working. Oldenburg is one of the Winelands’ best-kept secrets, a vineyard with a fascinating family heritage that produces ‘small quantities of hand-crafted red and white wines from both Bordeaux and Rhône varietals’ and offers luxurious accommodation at the Homestead, the original family home.

The views are spectacular, best enjoyed by walking to the top of the round hill, known as Rondekop.

*You’ll find Oldenburg Vineyards in the Banghoek Valley (pronounced ‘bun hook’ and meaning ‘scary corner’ – a name attributed to past encounters with roaming leopards in the area).

oldenburgvineyards.com
#TheHomestead #Rondekopmagic #Oldenburgmoments

Photography: Grant Baartzes, Debbie Hathway

Winemaker Philip Costandius savours a glass of Grenache Noir 2014

Mauritius delivers. You’ll see

Wed, 14 Sep 2016 07:02:32 GMT

Hitting the pool early morning means you have it to yourself.

DEBBIE HATHWAY is obsessed with a few things that Mauritius delivers – the island lifestyle, Indian cuisine by Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia, and staying in shape.

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

I’m never as full of vitality as I am when on the Mauritian east coast. I tell people there’s something in the air, at once energising and calming, which begins to work its magic the minute I step out of the plane. There’s fact behind that feeling. Research conducted by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) in 2015 rates the island’s air quality one of the best in the world.

The vibrancy it brings allows me to be one of the last guests to take advantage of the award-winning LUX* Belle Mare’s Sleep Tight promise (a resort-specific combination of mattress and linen positively heaven-sent to ensure the best night’s sleep ever) and one of the first to greet the new day from a sea-facing suite. Daybreak is arguably one of the best times to go for a swim in the enormous temperature-controlled pool or a run along the island’s longest and largest beach.

LUX* Belle Mare’s wellness concierge and former tennis pro, Mattias Rendefors, advises guests to make morning training a habit. If for some reason you skip it, you can make it up in the afternoon, but if something comes up or you’re tired, it usually means a missed workout. ‘We’ve got to get up at 5am? It’s dark. No way, they say,’ says Mattias. ‘Yes, it does hurt in the beginning, but people who’ve made that change arrive at work feeling better, more energetic.’

Make morning training a habit

How long to make it a habit? Three weeks to get to the 30-minute daily minimum. ‘The more the better for cardio training,’ says Mattias, ‘but you have to be realistic. We have guests who come here just to improve their tennis. If they can be on court for two hours every day, for two weeks, their holiday’s made,’ he says. Mauritius delivers.

At LUX* Belle Mare, guests can choose from a range of locations to keep fit depending on their exercise regime – from swimming in temperate waters to working out on the beach or practising yoga under the palm trees. ‘We often host business people who have not exercised in a long while and might not have factored fitness into their downtime, but, you know, this is a time to reflect,’ says Mattias. ‘I like to think of it as the psychology of a vacation. For many people it’s a time of self-assessment. They might take their shirt off on the beach and go, whoa, what happened here… and then decide maybe now it’s time to do some training.’

Beach tennis puts the fun in exercise.

Mattias focuses on the long term, because what you do on vacation isn’t going to make a big difference; it’s the habits you create in your daily life that will. Mauritius delivers That’s where the LUX* Me Fitness concept comes in. Mattias and his colleague, Patrick Mooken, work with guests to establish their priorities – looking younger, getting stronger, being more flexible, building muscle, improving athletic performance, losing weight – and offer solutions that include designing a training programme that they will enjoy in their daily routine.

On the beach or under the trees

Mattias advises on general training and nutrition, while Patrick is trained in the Functional Movement Screen (FMS), a system that assesses muscular imbalances, and guides him in recommending remedial exercises to improve athletic performance. For professional or keen sportsmen, injury prevention is key. It’s more important than anything else, Mattias explains. ‘If they injure themselves while training they can’t continue, and then everything goes to pieces. I advise that they do the FMS and follow the recommended exercises. Even pro footballers have found it a demanding workout.’

Training protocols have changed drastically over the past two decades. A pro tennis player used to train in the gym, doing traditional exercises such as squats, bench presses, etc. And now it’s all about functional training, which centres on floor-based exercises. ‘FMS tests clients’ mobility and stability, after which we can personalise a programme to target weaknesses, be it balance, flexibility or strength,’ says Mattias.

And what about stamina? Interval training is key, he explains. When he’s training elite players he’ll mix up the environment, perhaps taking them to the beach for a combination of quick sprints and slow runs to get the heart rate up. ‘You can also do interval training in the water if you’re a decent swimmer. Twenty-five seconds of intense butterfly can be very exhausting, followed by 45 seconds of more relaxing breaststroke. Repeat that seven times and that’s your workout done.’

Mauritius delivers

Working out at LUX* Belle Mare offers ample reward. Have a nourishing meal at one of the superb restaurants – my favourite, naturally, was Amari by Vineet. Or treat yourself afterwards to a coffee at Café LUX*, ice cream at ICI or a craft beer, all made on site to help reduce the hotel’s carbon footprint. And for pure relaxation, a massage at the LUX* Me Spa is a must. Try the Thai or Balinese massage to ease tightened muscles, followed by a deep-cleansing facial for two or more hours of pure bliss. 

* Visit luxresorts.com for more details.

• Published in Private Edition 33

A Secret Life

Sun, 14 Aug 2016 06:54:13 GMT

Published in Private Edition 33

Le Bristol Paris is all French luxury and refinement, but its history is as rich and intriguing as its guests…

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

THE WOMAN WEARING THE HAT with a small dog at the end of a leash could easily have been a dowager aunt out of a Brontë novel. They were waiting for the lift, which is fronted by an elaborate wrought-iron grille next to the great staircase inside Le Bristol Paris.

Dogs have been allowed in the hotel since it was founded by Hippolyte Jammet in 1925. Guests who wished to keep their pets in their room were charged 10 francs a day for the privilege – the equivalent cost of a maid’s room at the time.

Since ownership of the hotel changed families for the first time in 1978, Le Bristol Paris has continued to flourish. It is one of only a few establishments that can claim the distinction of being a Parisian Palace Hotel – an honour bestowed by the tourism ministry of the French government in recognition of their facilities, client service and accessibility. This jewel of the Oetker Collection boasts its own feline royalty: Fa-Raon and Kléopatre, thoroughbred Birman cats distinguished by their fine white coats, wild highlights and sapphire-coloured eyes. During my visit, Kléopatre was holding court curled up on an armchair near the three-starred Michelin restaurant, Epicure (the dining facilities are out of bounds for furry friends), while Fa-Raon was keeping a lazy eye on activities from one of his favourite vantage points in the foyer.

Back to the lift… Drawn by the incredible artistry of the design, upon enquiry I learnt that it is part of the legacy of Leo Lerman, a Jewish architect given refuge (and several clandestine work projects) by the hotel founder, Jammet, during World War II. Lerman had worked on extensions and refurbishments for him in 1930, but returned in 1942 to try to escape deportation to the death camps. For three years, he never left the hotel. His room, 106, was removed from the register and any record of his name deleted. But from there he managed to redesign the dining room, and eventually more rooms, under the noses of the occupying German army in a hotel that was never empty. It’s a fascinating story.

Jammet chose the prestigious Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré near the Élysée Palace for the site of his hotel, correctly anticipating that it would attract an esteemed clientele looking for quiet and discretion. Today it stands at the centre of Paris, boasting, among other exclusive attractions, an extensive interior garden seldom seen in the inner city.

The Palace’s excellence can be defined in terms of the size and luxurious fittings of its rooms and suites, its fastidious décor, the faultless service, the Spa Le Bristol by La Prairie (considered one of the best in the world), the exquisite garden, the three Michelin-starred chef Eric Frechon of the hotel’s Epicure restaurant, the award-winning pastry chef Laurent Jeannin, or Le Bar du Bristol (voted best bar in the world in 2013). This year, Le Bristol Paris was voted Best Luxury Hotel in France and Best Hotel for Quality of Service in France in the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards. What differentiates this hotel from others, however, is the shared passion of the staff and their uncompromising attention to detail that makes so many clients regular visitors.

After only a one-night stay, I found myself hovering in the foyer after checkout, loathe to leave. Noticing my dilemma, the general manager grinned and enquired what had made my experience so special. There were so many… the friendly staff interactions in fluent English; the customised fragrance that filled the air; the hotel design that invites natural light to flood in from every possible angle; the sumptuous 18th-century décor and luxuriously spacious rooms; the fresh flowers arranged daily by three florists with a budget of €30 000 per month, and the realisation that this hotel really does make guests feel at home. It’s a level of intimacy that so many strive for, but fail to achieve.

* Visit lebristolparis.com and oetkercollection.com for further information.

A Sense of Place

Thu, 14 Apr 2016 07:00:18 GMT

Published in Sawubona April 2016

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

Shangri-La’s recently refurbished Le Touessrok Resort & Spa, located on a part of the Mauritian east coast called Trou d’Eau Douce Bay, makes its mark not only with its trademark Asian influence, but also with its overall presentation. The resort’s natural ambience inspires instant relaxation, but a fresh approach to its interior design and the introduction of the transformational Ayurvedic treatments at the CHI spa are just two of the features designed to cast magic very rapidly.

Most noticeable is the casual lounge lobby, where new arrivals immediately begin to unwind over a welcome cocktail while their check-in formalities are handled by the extremely efficient staff. The lobby’s layout flows effortlessly seawards around stylishly understated furniture made with indigenous materials, a key element that creates a calming, earthy feel to the expansive suites as well.

Visitors will delight in the Japanese fare at Kushi, while a meal or two at Safran will delight lovers of Indian cuisine fare.

For reservations, contact World Leisure Holidays, 0860 954 954,
www.wlh.co.za

Life in a Celebrity Slipstream

Wed, 30 Mar 2016 07:04:00 GMT

The name may be fictitious but Shangri-La means serenity and service. If you’re in hospitality, that’s about the biggest promise you can make. This is what happens when you add a top-drawer management company to a Mauritian resort that’s been given a magical refurbishment.

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

A uniformed official was bearing a sign with my name on it at the air bridge. Even if you’re absolutely sure you are not a smuggler, not on the FBI’s most-wanted list and have never given the air crew lip, your blood freezes. It turned out this was bog standard royal/rock-star treatment and that meant skipping formalities at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport. His task was not to march me off for interrogation but to a waiting Porsche Cayenne.

Without a word, he drove me and a colleague to a nearby building and to the big reveal – a YU Lounge. And it is all about you; Champagne and canapés and a personal customs official on standby to process your arrival to Mauritius. All we had to do was hand over our passports and baggage tags and relax. No queues, no questions, no fuss. This was just one of the major plus points for VIP guests travelling by private jet or commercial airline en route to their little piece of paradise. In airport terms, the 30 minutes it took to ‘process’ us was in speed terms a bullet train. Destination: Shangri-La’s recently refurbished Le Touessrok Resort and Spa, on a stretch of the east coast called Trou d’Eau Douce Bay.

A frequent returnee, I never tire of this drive. It’s about an hour’s journey along the coastal road, winding past fishing villages and Indian temples, mixed vegetable crops and sugarcane fields, with the island’s volcanic terrain in the distance. One of two luxury establishments first imagined for Mauritius by Sol Kerzner (beginning with Le Saint Géran in 1975), Le Touessrok is now under management by the Hong Kong-based Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts for the owners, Sun Limited. Shangri-La revealed Le Touessrok’s new look late last year and its trademark Asian influence is evident in the décor, fine dining and the group’s in-house Chi, the Spa. There’s something else they get: after any number of hours and a longish taxi trip, pretty scenery aside, the last thing you feel like is what you could dub ‘counter-intuitive’, that exasperating form-filling, card-swiping ritual that wrecks the moment. A casual lounge lobby replaces formal check-in counters so the experience is much more like being welcomed as a house guest. The lobby layout blends seamlessly with the outdoors, leading to tropical gardens that pattern the walkways to the sea-facing rooms and suites, as well as relaxation and dining areas.

The décor is stylishly understated, incorporating more indigenous materials to reflect the natural environment – and helping guests progress faster towards shedding the layers of daily life in favour of a shaded recliner near a watery playground of their choice. The more active guests are dished up water sports and golf (a fine course designed by Bernhard Langer) at the nearby Île aux Cerfs, while the resort’s private island, Ilot Mangénie, is a short boat ride away. At this little escape from an already secluded area of the coast, the only formal structure was a beach club serving delicious food. I spent hours wandering alone along the pale sand, keeping a wary eye out for spiky sea urchins washed up by the tide, reclining on a lounger or wallowing in the shallow, temperate waters balancing a cocktail. It’s what the brochures promise but here it’s delivered effortlessly.

On the main site, Safran offers superb classical Indian fare prepared by chef Ramesh Bundi while a new addition, Kushi, can be recommended equally for its contemporary Japanese menu and raised ocean views. It’s impossible not to taste almost everything. Then again, there’s that beach for a run, and a gym that offers a range of exercise programmes from yoga to custom-designed cardio routines. And to soothe aching muscles? The magnetic attraction of Chi, the Spa next door with its Ayurvedic wellness approach and therapeutic range of botanical and herbal products extracted from plants grown on site. The signature baton cane deep-tissue massage, performed using a sugar-cane stick, lifts energy levels and obliterates any remnants of fatigue and muscle pain.

Not one to favour early nights, even at this level of paradise, I was happy to discover that the entertainment programme incorporated live music at the intimate Sega Bar a little further along the shore. A DJ was also mixing beats at the Republik Beach Club & Grill to liven up what has been known as a quiet (often older) couples’ destination. But the sound from both sources is contained so that there is no competition, leaving areas of the resort still blissfully quiet for those who prefer to turn in early.

You don’t leave a resort such as this. You abandon it with great reluctance. They are well aware of this here and on your last morning, your butler arranges red roses and frangipani fresh from the garden in your room. It is a seduction of the senses and on that one-hour trip to the airport you plot your return. This time, perhaps, with dark shades, luggage that match a bit more, and insouciance to your walk. There is a slim chance someone might mistake you for Someone…

Natural Barometer

Mon, 23 Nov 2015 07:01:50 GMT

Published in Private Edition 30, November 2015

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

There is an enchanting wildlife reserve, a little larger than Singapore, only three hours’ drive from Cape Town where conservation means more than protecting what exists now. They’re bringing back the past too.

My grandmother liked to recite poetry, partly to prove she was still of sound mind and partly for dramatic effect. I thought of her as I once listened to authors Deryck Uys and Tom Burgers alternately reciting Jan F Cilliers’ ‘Die Vlakte’ in Afrikaans and English, all three of them octogenarians with a flair for delivery that had me hanging on every word.

That iconic poem is published in Burgers’ book, Karoo Pastoraal, the poet’s lyrical rhythm and vivid imagery making this ‘legendary portion of our planet’ so much more than the barren, desolate place many imagine the former Khoisan hunting grounds to be. Besides making news amidst fracking controversies and wind-farm developments, the Karoo is famed for its unpolluted environment, perfect for stargazing on a clear night. ‘Karoo… the name is odd,’ writes author Dianne Hofmeyr. ‘It comes from a language of clicks – karo, karro – meaning “hard” or “dry”. And it is dry and hard, with a gaunt, spectacular grandeur that subdues me.’

‘Die Vlakte’ is in fact the sign that travellers through the Karoo must search for at the Route 62 turnoff to the 54 000-hectare Sanbona

Wildlife Reserve.

Set on the horseshoe bend of a mostly dry ravine, Dwyka Tented Lodge, our luxury hideaway for the weekend, is built to blend in with the environment and positioned to shield occupants from neighbourly contact. The trappings of modern-day existence are limited to a television set in the communal bar and intermittent Wi-Fi in the adjacent lounge. Shrouded in mist and punctuated by bright green shrubs and glistening watery trails, a sheer cliff face across the riverbed presents the opportunity for peaceful contemplation from the comfort of the heated king-size bed or the Jacuzzi on the wooden deck.

Walking the walk

Client satisfaction is high on rangers’ scorecards, so they like to know in advance what guests hope to see. Requests to see a predator hunt, and preferably kill, or to locate the most elusive animal on the reserve are not unusual but senior ranger Jannie Swanepoel was not expecting my partner Gregg’s request to see giraffe (he’d never seen them in the wild). An easy start then… a tower of giraffe, with a baby whose estimated 80kg weight and two-metre height belied the fact that he was only a couple of weeks old.

Sanbona’s fragile environment restricts rangers from driving off-road, which we only realised when Jannie stopped and invited us to disembark and follow him into the bush to get a closer look at a pair of rhino. Already nursing a bad cold and fearful of coughing or sneezing (or both) at the wrong moment, Jannie reassured me that a guest’s cough had once saved his life. It brought an elephant out of hiding that he would not otherwise have seen, narrowly avoiding a close encounter of the life-threatening kind. I can’t help but wonder whether a violent sneeze will elicit curiosity or a full-on charge…

In addition to occupancy limitations (there are 54 beds to 54 000 hectares, excluding the Explorer Camp), the number of game-viewing vehicles is also restricted to minimise the human impact on the animals and ecosystem at Sanbona. Locally extinct hippo, elephant, buffalo, cheetah, lion and various indigenous antelope species have been reintroduced, and efforts made to improve the quality of their grazing and browsing, with a hands-off approach to 8 000 hectares of wilderness area. ‘It’s a diverse landscape,’ says general manager Paul Vorster. ‘It’s not often that you’ll find a space that has these different kinds of substrates. There’s depth and size as well.’

Sanbona provides a haven for endangered and critically endangered fauna, such as the Cape mountain zebra, cheetah, and the riverine rabbit; an important breeding ground for raptors such as the black eagle and booted eagle; and a vital habitat for local and migratory waterbirds on Bellair Dam. ‘Our cheetah management programme is one of the achievements we’re most excited about. We’ve been able to reintroduce cheetahs into a variety of reserves that needed them. Their efficiency in this environment, particularly when it comes to surviving attacks from predatory lion and hyena, makes them highly effective elsewhere,’ says Paul.

The latest sightings are communicated by radio (two vehicles per sighting or only one if a mother and her young are still being conditioned to human presence). Electronic tracking equipment proves helpful, but doesn’t guarantee success. Despite our best efforts, a herd of elephant remained undetected until we were far enough away to see them emerge from where we’d been circling.

The final early morning game drive hit the jackpot. The tracker delivered this time, helping Jannie pinpoint where a cheetah and her three teenage youngsters were basking behind a bush in the ever-strengthening heat of the day. ‘We could hear the tapping sound of the tracker, which gets louder as you get closer to the animals, but to be able to read where they are is quite something,’ recounts Gregg.

Jannie and Gregg had to walk through them to find a better vantage point. ‘The young male was on one side, the females on the other. They were okay with us being there and the male joined the others once we had walked through,’ says Gregg. ‘They just lay there, purring deeply. I’ve never heard anything like it.’

Determined to top that experience, Jannie went in search of the ‘pride of Sanbona’ – both literally and figuratively – the result of a project launched in 2003 to have free-ranging wild white lions on the reserve. Over time, cubs were born and raised, and there was a carefully orchestrated integration of the white lions with the existing tawny lion pride. ‘Tracking them took a while and took us to all corners of the reserve,’ says Gregg. Jannie eventually headed into the bush on foot, only to beat a hasty retreat as the subject of his search materialised a few metres away. ‘It wasn’t a clear sighting, but just to see the white male and tawny female peering back at us through the thicket was close enough to stir the soul,’ says Gregg. ‘It was possibly the highlight for me.’

Spirit of the East

Wed, 14 Oct 2015 06:57:23 GMT

Published in Private Edition 27

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

As a bank manager’s teen daughter I was less than thrilled about my father’s intercity transfers that aided his career trajectory, but …his coastal placements provided us all with wonderful opportunities to explore South Africa’s Wild Coast. Holidays for our family in the ’70s and ’80s meant long walks on the beach, reading, collecting shells and rock fishing off often-deserted beaches on either side of the Kei River, which separates the former Transkei from East London.An invitation to revisit the area was irresistible, this time at an award-winning luxury retreat, Prana Lodge, in Chintsa East, less than an hour’s drive from East London Airport.

For 30 years this stretch of land featured only the beach cottage of owners Gail and Tim Davidson of Johannesburg, who realised the benefits of recharging their batteries there by returning as often as their business pursuits would allow. When Tim turned 60, they decided to make it their home base and create a small development for guests seeking similar levels of rejuvenation. ‘Tim, who has a legal and financial background, suddenly discovered his creative side and designed the lodge himself,’ says Gail. With the help of local labour, they carved out space for seven expansive suites, a pool, kitchen and public dining area, producing an Afro-Asian ‘private haven’ offering ‘ultimate relaxation’, ‘highly personalised service’ and ‘exceptional cuisine’.

Prana is the Sanskrit word for life force, and the energy at the lodge is indeed palpable. ‘Triathletes come to unwind, managers come for team building, couples come for romance. The most unusual booking we’ve had was a crowd of Russians who arrived in three helicopters,’ Gail says. ‘And we had a 60th-anniversary stay that was ostensibly better than [the couple’s] honeymoon!’ As the members of our small group trail to our suites, individually decorated to reflect their gemstone names, we are warned to keep outward-leading doors closed to the resident vervet monkeys. Still, they nearly get the better of my rapidly dissolving focus as they dangle inquisitively over the edge of the outdoor parasol, peering in to assess the dash to the tempting fruit display.

It’s not long before the transformation the Davidsons had initiated begins to impress. ‘There are very few areas left in the dune forest where you’re permitted to have a development, so we’ve been very focused on preserving and regenerating the natural bush,’ says Gail. In addition, locals who had proved themselves during the building phase, had a ready smile and were willing to learn were offered further training at the bar and front of house, and in the kitchen and laundry. Young interns from the South African Butler Academy work here to rack up practical experience.

They have an exemplary role model in Gail. Her uncompromising attention to detail is evidenced in every aspect of the resort, from the high standard of service to the relaxed chic of the decor. Her careful mix of family silverware, Persian carpets, artwork and antiques adds a uniquely personal touch, and pretty posies of fresh flowers from the garden add a flourish to tables and plates alike.

Because Prana Lodge is tucked away in the bush, it is relatively sheltered from the prevailing winds. The Indian Ocean coastline is not immediately evident and it is only the next morning that I’m able to find my way to the sea. The monkeys idly watch my progress at intervals along the wooden pathway and then, suddenly, there it is: that endless stretch of white sand that I remembered so well, a handful of people enjoying the brisk sea breeze, and some romping dogs. With only a moment’s hesitation, I fill my lungs with salty air, kick off my shoes and run down the sand dune like a child.

Prana Lodge makes it easy to let go, whether you’re indulging in an authentic Thai spa treatment, tracing the water-wise labyrinth near the organic herb garden or heat-soaking at the pool. Combine that with the chefs’ cheerful determination to meet every culinary and health challenge posed to them and, yes, you may let go – but you won’t want to leave.

For more information, visit pranalodge.co.za.

Journey within

Fri, 09 Jan 2015 07:06:14 GMT

Imagine a sanctuary where the only rules are recommendations and the only goal is to achieve greater mental, emotional and physical wellbeing…

Words: DEBBIE HATHWAY

The tranquil garden pavilion at the One&Only Le Saint Géran is the new centre of the Harmonia universe, a wellbeing programme created exclusively for the Mauritian resort by Chinese medicine practitioner and physiotherapist Francesc Miralles.

Set within landscaped tropical foliage, above a waterway that’s home to several ducks, fish and vibrant birdlife, this is the starting point for a “journey through the mandala”, a therapy ritual that helps you rediscover your self.

“When I was researching comparative offerings around the world, I made the differentiation between wellness and wellbeing. My product is not just about achieving physical wellness through conventional spa pampering; we take a more holistic view,” says Miralles. “Each place has its own USP and I wanted to introduce something that nobody else has.”

His thinking is in line with the global trend towards wellness tourism, which sees travellers seeking solutions for the long-term prevention of disease rather than a temporary quick fix. Depending on your location, and your zest and capacity for travel, you can visit Austria’s Viva Mayr Clinic for a customised organic food diet, combined with health diagnostics and applied kinesiology. Or try the Sha Wellness Clinic in Alicante, Spain, which is famous for its macrobiotic gastronomy. They also offer a range of natural therapies, anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine treatments.

Miralles says at Chiva-Som in Thailand, you can sign up for anything from a three- to 28-night series. “They offer great treatments and food, but the programme is not that personalised,” he adds.

For raw foodists, the COMO Shambala Hotel and Resort in Bali offers a great juice detox. After a three-, five- or seven-night programme, clients will feel energised from the cleansing but their bodies will may have been weakened, Miralles says.

While India is another popular destination for health fundis, because it’s cheap, Miralles is excited about the quality of the fresh food and herbs accessible to the chefs at the One&Only Le Saint Géran. Proper nutrition, rest and relaxation are the main ingredients of his Harmonia programme. In addition, the “journey through the mandala” encompasses his hands-on treatments designed for relaxing or rebalancing, depending on the guest’s health and wellbeing goals. “You get a lot of information about food, exercise and lifestyle in general, and learn a lot about yourself too. It can become a spiritual journey,” says Miralles.

He may request some medical history in your initial consultation and even consult x-rays if necessary, but ultimately his treatment will be guided by his measurement of your pulse rate and the sensitivity of pressure points along the meridians. The body doesn’t lie and neither does he. There are some things Miralles can’t treat – like acute sciatica, for which the only prescription is rest, or diabetes, for which he can only offer dietary advice.

Once he’s determined whether you need relaxing or detoxing therapies, Miralles consults with chefs Vikash Coonjan and Vineet Bhatia to prepare a carefully constructed menu for the duration of the programme. Some guests opt for a one-day introduction, while others may prefer a three-day intensive or a more gradual seven-day detox. Miralles credits Coonjan and Bhatia as alchemist and genie respectively for their ability to cook up mouth-watering, healthy food recipes designed to counter temperature and climate variables, spiced with specially selected herbs, and washed down with herbal teas prepared according to Chinese medicine principles and Ayurvedic remedies.

There is a hidden challenge though. Part of One&Only Le Saint Géran’s service ethic is to anticipate what you want before you know you want it. So while the diet is designed to prevent you from getting hungry, temptation is everywhere. Indulge at your peril. Sugar and alcohol are the forbidden fruits – a Swiss chocolate on day two to satisfy a craving quickly created a post-nasal drip for this writer and a cocktail to celebrate the end of the treatment resulted in a raging headache. It’s just not worth it!

Essentially, Harmonia is not your average detox or weight-loss programme traditionally offered by health spas and it’s not accompanied by a rabbit-food diet. “Like a computer, everybody needs to reboot,” says One&Only Le Saint Géran general manager Charles de Foucault. “Harmonia is designed to nurture and nourish for overall wellbeing.”

De Foucault first discovered Miralles at his highly successful clinic in Bali. After 15 years of clinical practice and studies that gave him professorial status in his knowledge of Chinese medicine, Miralles had embarked on his own journey through the Silk Road, South-East Asia, China and Tibet. At his final stop in Bali, where he was able to relieve suffering for scores of locals daily using Chinese herbal medicine and acupuncture, he realised he’d found his true calling. “Harmonia’s about developing the skills to feel better or to feel more… to bring focus, discipline and balance to your life,” says Miralles.sawubona_cover

And while women might buy into that philosophy easier than men, and therefore be more willing patients, it’s the testimonials from their partners that speak volumes. One reluctant client, who was given a one-day treatment as a gift, couldn’t remember when last he felt so relaxed, while another gentleman was amazed by the physical release Miralles achieved with painless acupuncture. The debilitating back pain he’d suffered for 10 years was gone. Everybody’s reactions are different, depending on their condition, but the result is almost always the same – success!

Exercise in the form of daily tai chi and chi kung is incorporated to complete the restoration cycle by helping the mind to relax and cultivate self-healing energy. “It’s an ancient practice – a lesson in patience that takes a long time to master, but it’s possible to learn the basics fairly quickly.” The benefits are lifelong.

With its pristine beaches, turquoise water and coconut palms lining its private peninsula, The One&Only Le Saint Géran is a world-renowned sanctuary in its own right, but the Harmonia programme takes it to another level. On my last day, there was a waiting list of guests requesting treatments. Enough said.

Way to go

SAA flies to Mauritius from OR Tambo International XXX days per week. www.flysaa.com.

For more information on travel packages and bookings, visit oneandonlyresorts.com or World Leisure Holidays at www.wlh.co.za.

Global retreats

For more top wellness programmes around the world, visit:

Chiva-Som, Thailand − Regularly ranked among the world’s best destination spas, Chiva-Som offers 150 treatments for relaxation, restoration and rejuvenation. www.chivasom.com

Sha Wellness Clinic, Spain − This award-winning medical spa is located in Albir Beach, which boasts one of the best climates on the planet. They focus on improving health by combining Eastern insights with Western techniques. www.shawellnessclinic.com

Viva Mayr Clinic, Austria − Viva, the Centre for Modern Mayr Medicine, is built on the shores of Lake Wörth. Their treatments are designed to strengthen the functioning of the digestive system through a balanced diet, natural healing and scientific therapies. www.viva-mayr.com

COMO Shambhala Estate, Bali and other locations − COMO Shambhala’s healthy living philosophy is rooted in Buddhism. They guide guests towards achieving inner tranquility without relying on an external location. www.comoshambhala.com

debbie-hathway

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